REVIEW: Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Invisible Cover Foundation

I remember when the original Make Up For Ever HD liquid foundation launched. High definition was becoming THE standard in television and photography, and people had to figure out new ways to put on their makeup without looking made up on camera. MUFE HD foundation promised to give you that perfected-but-not-Photoshopped look. I bought it in what was then the lightest yellow shade, 115, and found that it was too dark for me, great in pictures but makeup-y in person, and overall just not to my tastes.

I also remember when Make Up For Ever reformulated a lot of their base products. The switch from their admittedly gorgeous, but smelly Face and Body foundation to the sheerer, still stinky Water Blend prompted a lot of hurt feelings on the net. However, the reformulated HD liquid foundation received a more mixed review, with some raving that it was far superior to the original formula and others grousing that they didn't like the new version. I waffled on buying this for years before getting a Sephora gift card via Ebates (note: referral link) that would cover the cost.

Natural light on top, ring light in the middle, flash on the bottom. From left to right: Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Invisible Cover Foundation in Y205, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx01, NARS Sheer Glow Foundation in Siberia, Tarte Shape Tape Concealer in Fair, The Ordinary Coverage Foundation in 1.0N.

The reformulated MUFE HD liquid foundation is roughly equivalent to the previous formula in terms of price and packaging: you're paying $43 for just over an ounce of product in a clear, plastic bottle with a pump. The pump is easy to control and dispenses just a little product at a time, so don't be freaked about their "two pumps" recommendation--it's not as much foundation as you might think. The biggest change in the formula, in my opinion, is the shade range; there is now a yellow shade light enough for me (Y205 Alabaster), and there are multiple very deep shades.

Actually, I think Y205 might be a bit too light for me, since it seems to match my super pale neck and that's more fair than I normally like to go, but you can be the judge of that. I did not notice any oxidation.

The formula itself feels thinner than the original Ultra HD, almost like it has a bit of air fluffed in to it. The smell is not especially strong to me after application.

Applying this foundation with a brush gave me a true medium coverage, but it was much drier feeling and looking than I want. In fact, it felt a bit uncomfortable on my dry, dehydrated skin applied straight to the face that way. So from then on, I applied it with a damp Beauty Blender over a rich moisturizer (usually Belif Moisturizing Bomb). This gave me slightly lighter coverage, but only slightly; I'd still call that "after" picture medium coverage.

The good news is that, like its predecessor, this formula looks beautiful in photographs. It gives me skin a downright soft focus look in both cell phone selfies and HD pictures. The bad news is that it doesn't look quite that good in real life. It's dry and makeup-y without being patchy, flaky, or heavy-looking; the best way I can describe it is "chalky." Get within three feet of me wearing this product, and you'll think I've dusted my face with a flour. I actually felt uncomfortable in public when I wore this foundation to the grocery store because I knew it looked so odd.

 Me wearing MUFE Ultra HD Invisible Cover Foundation.

I also had a Hell of a time getting it to apply to my nose. Unfortunately, the HD-ness of this foundation made it almost impossible to photograph these foibles, but if you zoom in on the above "after" picture, it should be a bit more clear. (Not the salty Demi Lovato gif, the actual photos of my face.)

So it's not as "unnoticeable" as MUFE claims. It is, however, weightless when applied with a Beauty Blender. I felt like I had nothing on my skin when I wore this.

Note: I did blot with a blotting sheet after taking the 3 hour photo.

Ultra HD Invisible Cover Foundation was "meh" on me in terms of wear as well. Again, it looked gorgeous in pictures, but it got drier and more chalky on most of my face and faded off of my nose throughout the day. It didn't control the oil on my nose, either, which makes me think it's not a good option for truly oily skin.

I was hoping I'd like this reformulated product better than the original. Unfortunately, my feelings are roughly the same: it's great in photographs and weird looking in any other scenario. Granted, "chalky" is a different look from the original formula's "heavy," but it's still unattractive. What a bummer. Maybe I'll give Water Blend a second chance, but really, the smart thing to do might be to give MUFE a wide berth. I think it's an overall lovely brand that just doesn't suit my skin or my needs.

RATING: 3 out of 5

I purchased this product from Sephora.

REVIEW: Makeup Forever Ultra HD Invisible Cover Stick Foundation

Two reviews within the span of a week? Man, what a rare moment we're having here! I'm actually functioning!

In all seriousness, this product has been hanging around on my vanity since December, and it's been photographed for almost a month, but I'm only just now getting the review up. I don't know what made me drag my feet on this one. I'd like to blame it on having two ass-kicking illnesses so close together (a sinus infection in February and the ever-delightful norovirus this past weekend), but honestly, I think I was just waffling because this product is a bit out of my comfort zone.

What was so odd about this product? Well, the Makeup Forever Ultra HD Invisible Cover Stick Foundation (we're calling it the MUFE HD Stick from now on) is, as the name suggests, a stick foundation. I think the last time I used a stick foundation was when I was hanging around with theater kids and budding drag queens in high school. I've used cream foundations since, make no mistake, but actual sticks? Not so much. I don't entirely get why, considering I technically draw on smaller parts of my face with little pigment sticks all the time--that's what lipstick is.

Maybe it was the price. At 0.44oz for $43, the MUFE HD Stick is about standard for a stick foundation in terms of size, and the cost is not shocking as far as high-end products go. Stick foundations often contain less product because it doesn't take as much to get the same effect compared to a liquid foundation. That said, I'm so used to liquid foundations clocking in at a full ounce that this definitely gave me pause, logic be damned. Also, the lightest yellow shade available at Sephora was Y225, which I worried would be a bit dark for me.

Natural light on top, flash on the bottom. From left to right: Makeup Forever Ultra HD Invisible Cover Stick Foundation in Y225, NARS Sheer Glow Foundation in Siberia, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx01.

As you can see in the above swatch photo, yep, Y225 was too dark for me. Because it has rather strong yellow undertones, and because I stopped it at medium coverage instead of building it up to full, I don't think it's too horribly obvious in photographs. There's definitely a difference between my neck and face, though, so bear and mind. Looking at these swatches, I would say Y225 is 1-2 shades darker than the other two foundations, and the Sensual Skin Enhancer seems more neutral. Overall, I'd peg Y225 at about NC15 on a MAC scale, maybe a bit lighter when it's blended out on the skin.

By the way, somebody I follow on Instagram recently pointed out that Makeup Forever is expanding the range for this foundation; they'll be adding an even paler yellow shade as well as some more deep shades. Keep on keepin' on, MUFE.

Like I said, I wanted medium coverage from this product. I noticed that a lot of people who reviewed this foundation on YouTube used copious amounts to get full coverage, so I used about half of what they applied and blended it out with a damp Beauty Blender sponge. The above shot from my webcam shows how much I applied to my right cheek; blended out, this covered my cheek, temple, and the right half of my chin.

Again, solid medium coverage was my goal, and I think the above before-and-after photos show just that. You could apply more product for fuller coverage, but with cream formulas like this, I find that you get a bit of caking. That said, this foundation felt weightless on my skin despite being a cream formula, so maybe you could get more mileage out of two layers of it.

Blending this out was incredibly easy, by the way, especially with the Beauty Blender. The formula is smooth and creamy, which is not shocking given the number of emollients and waxes in this formula and its stick format. When I tested this with a dense brush, I noticed that the creaminess actually led to some streaking, and it was a little uncomfortable to blend this with my fingers. I'd definitely recommend sticking with a sponge.

Here is a macro shot of the foundation shortly after it was first applied. As you can see, it's not quite the dewy, luminous dream I was promised (this is supposedly pure greasy glory on even the driest skin, according to most reviews). That said, it still looks decent: it's smooth, satin-y, and has done a good job of covering up my redness. I will point out that it settled in to lines and, if you were within a foot of me, it looked a bit makeup-y. That's probably a mixture of the coverage (since I normally go for sheer products) and the actual finish of the product. My partner saw me wearing it on Snapchat and told me he didn't like it because it looked "like a mask," but he later admitted that he was probably turned off by the too-dark shade and the more-than-usual amount of coverage.

From roughly a foot or more away, this foundation looked super smooth and flawless after application. It also photographs pretty damn well, as you will see, provided you aren't up-close and in-macro-mode.

From left to right: 15 minutes after application, 3 hours after application, 5 hours after application.

Here's where things get a bit hairy. Makeup Forever claims that this product is a "long-lasting, multitasking cover stick with invisible coverage." As I've already shown, the coverage isn't really invisible. Yeah, it looks good, but it also definitely looks like you're wearing makeup.

Multi-tasking is more fair, I must say. I skipped regular concealer on this day and just dabbed on a bit more of the foundation stick where needed, and I think it did a fairly good job. It brightened up my undereyes and hid blemishes well.

Long-lasting, though, is a crock of shit.

Look, I know cream formulas made for video and photographs are not the most tenacious on the market. They have a very specific niche to fill. But damn, does this stuff move! Even when I set it with a powder, it would transfer if I so much as tapped my face. Notice the bright red spots on my nose where the nose pads on my glasses sit? Yeah, they were visible within an hour. By the time I hit the three hour mark, my hose was oilier than ever and the product was starting to get weirdly textured and dry on the rest of my face.

Here's a macro shot of how this foundation looked on me after about 3 hours.

Beyond the fact that we are scary close here and I'm so sorry, isn't this a bit weird looking? While it looked gorgeous when it was first applied, and it still looked pretty damn good in pictures, anybody within a foot of me would see texture on my face that never before existed. My cheeks and chin actually look like they've got tiny little dots poked through a thick layer of foundation. It's not a good look.

As for using it as a touch-up or contouring product? Eh, that would be okay. It's certainly smooth and creamy enough to work for contouring and highlighting if you get the right shades and use a small amount. And while it got a bit wonky-looking if I layered this product on top of itself, I will note that using a small amount of this stick over a liquid foundation was just fine. I do think it could work well as a toss-it-in-your-bag product. But in the long run, it only looks good in pictures and videos, provided you aren't in super HD close up mode, and it doesn't do half of what it promises. At the end of the day, this is another foundation that left me disappointed.

RATING: 3 out of 5

Makeup Forever products are sold at Sephora.

VIDEO: Who Should Try This?, episode 2

I'm hoping this Who Should Try This? episode is a slight improvement over the first one! I picked out just three products to discuss and cut down how much I said about each one. Full reviews and a table of contents are provided after the video!

(NOTE: To watch full-screen, start playing, then click the YouTube button at the bottom right.)

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

Makeup Forever Water Blend Foundation -- 1:08

Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Gel -- 4:45

Glossier Haloscope --  8:40

REVIEW: Makeup Forever Water Blend Foundation

For years, one question has divided families, prompted wars, and destroyed relationships throughout the beauty community: "Who makes a better version of Face and Body foundation, Makeup Forever or MAC?" And for a long time, I have considered MAC Face and Body foundation a superior option. It's not that the MUFE option was bad, it just didn't work for me because of the super pink fair shades and the awful stench.

Then Makeup Forever announced that they were discontinuing their Face and Body foundation and replacing it with Water Blend. Towers fell, the widowed wept, it was a travesty!

I joke, I kid. Some long-time fans were nervous, but from what I've seen, most are satisfied with the updated shade range and formula. Since it looked like I'd finally have a shade match (Y215 Yellow Alabaster) and the perfume had purportedly been removed, I was on board the moment Sephora stocked up and positive reviews rolled in.

Natural light on top, flash on the bottom. From left: Makeup Forever Water Blend in Y215 Yellow Alabaster, NARS Sheer Glow in Siberia, MAC Full Coverage in NW10.

Makeup Forever Water Blend foundation comes in a glass bottle with an easy-to-control pump and 1.69oz of product for $43. While that's more foundation than the standard 1oz, I will note that I have to use more than one pump to do my entire face and the very top of my neck. It has an incredibly thin, lightweight texture, and it actually feels cooling on the face--not surprising, given it's supposedly 80% water.

Unfortunately, Water Blend still has added fragrance. It's not the same sickening floral smell they used before, but it's still pretty gross and unnecessary; the smell reminds me of that cucumber melon perfume every girl wore when I was in high school. I don't notice the smell when I'm wearing the foundation, but it's gag-inducing when I apply it, and I'm a little miffed that they felt the need to keep added fragrance in the formula.

Y215 is the palest yellow shade currently in the range, comparable to around NC10 on a MAC scale. This makes it darker than my neck and lighter than my face, so it's about where I like foundations to be. I will add that I'm disappointed by the deeper end of the shade range. It appears that there's only one very deep shade for ebony skintones (R540 Dark Brown), and the next darkest shades (R520 Cinnamon and Y505 Cognac) look much lighter. I'm basing this on reviews I've seen from deeper-skinned bloggers and swatches, though, so please let me know if I'm off-base. It's a better range than many other high end foundations have, at least.

My skin has been at its clearest for the past week or so, which can make judging coverage a little tough. Fortunately (?), a stressful morning on the day I did most of the photographing helped form a bright red patch of hives on my forehead. Hurrah!

In the above before and after photographs, I used 2 pumps of foundation and buffed them in to my skin using a Real Techniques Expert Face Brush. As you can see, the result is a more even skin tone with a healthy, natural look to it...but very little coverage. If anything is going to disappoint fans of the old Face and Body formula, it's the much lighter coverage Water Blend provides. You can, however, build it up to a decent medium coverage with 2-3 layers of product.

Buffing the foundation in with a brush was fairly easy because of the fluid texture. I did not experience major issues with streaking or patchiness. Despite being marketed as a "dewy" foundation that hydrates the skin, I found that this settled a bit in to my fine lines and looked a tad sandy on the driest parts of my face (my chin and jawline) up close. Yet it didn't really emphasize the dryness, nor did it cling as badly to my very dry, dehydrated skin as most foundations do. I think the above macro shot demonstrates this well.

According to my mother, the foundation looked "a little dry" on this day and it "didn't cover much." She did add that it wasn't bad, just not as moist and glowy as I normally like it to be. She wasn't fibbing: I usually drench my face with moisturizing spray throughout the day, but because I was trying to photograph the wear on this product, I resisted.

Speaking of photographing, I find that this foundation is very camera-friendly. My skin looks naturally healthy in both HD photos and cellphone selfies.

From left to right: 15 minutes after application, 3 hours after application, 6 hours after application.

Without my usual nose powder and face mist, Water Blend still had pretty decent wear. Again, it was a hair dry on the worst parts of my face, but it did not make me look or feel dryer. My nose got very oily throughout the day, so I blotted right before the 6 hour photo with blotting paper. Truly oily-skinned people should probably take a pass on this one.

The way Water Blend feels on the skin is what impressed me the most. It is completely weightless and I can't even tell I'm wearing it. I did not have problems with the foundation and transferring, and it didn't make my skin react poorly (no breakouts, hives, or itching). 

The header image shows how Water Blend looks when I treat it as part of my regular routine: I used powder on my nose and sprayed copious amounts of Cinema Secrets Moisture Spray all over my face. This helped with the wear and finish. Also, I applied a pump and a half of product with my fingers instead of using a brush. Applying with fingers allowed me to use less product and seems to have prevented the settling in fine lines.

I'm disappointed that Makeup Forever decided to keep the added fragrance in their formula, and that there seem to be major gaps in the darker end of the shade range. I also think promising a "fresh, dewy glow" was a bad idea, since it doesn't contain enough emollients for a truly dewy finish on dry skin like mine. That said, it has a comfortable feel, a fair number of shades thus far with room for improvement, and great performance in front of a camera. With a few minor tweaks, this could easily be a five star foundation.

RATING: 4 out of 5

Water Blend is available at MakeupForever.com.

REVIEW: Makeup Forever Ultra HD Concealer

I don't talk about concealer too much on this blog. It has less to do with the fact that I have decent skin and more to do with the fact that I don't try new ones very often. It's just hard to top the Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer's coverage or the NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer's flexibility. And I have a "fair, cool yellow" match in both lines! Why stray?

Sephora had their VIB sale earlier this month, though, and I heard the siren's call of this new Makeup Forever Ultra HD Concealer. Touted as "invisible coverage" that will give you "instant under eye perfection," I knew I wanted to test this product out on the Underye Circles of Doom.

The Makeup Forever Ultra HD Concealer is a liquid concealer housed in a small squeeze tube with a tiny nozzle. I've heard a few people complaining that it's hard to control how much product you dispense, but I had no problem getting the ittiest bittiest smidge out of the tube; I just gave it a very gentle, quick squeeze. I like that this packaging is simple, but effective, and relatively sanitary. At $27 for 0.23 fluid ounces of product, it's on par price-wise with the aforementioned NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer and many other high end options.

Natural light on top, flash on the bottom. From left to right: Makeup Forever Ultra HD Concealer in Y21, NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Chantilly, Urban Decay Naked Skin Concealer in Fair Neutral, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx01.

I was told that this color range ran lighter than it looks on the website, and sure enough, Y21 (the lightest yellow-based shade) is one of the absolute palest concealers I've ever seen, if not THE palest. I will note, however, that its undertones look a bit more neutral than truly yellow to me, which I think makes the shades it's swatched against seem much darker by comparison. Regardless, I did have a shade match.

I also liked the texture of this product when I first felt it: it's an extremely thin liquid with plenty of slip. I figured it would be weightless and blendable.

The actual performance of this concealer, however, left much to be desired. I patted this on my undereye area and was miffed when I realized...it wasn't covering much of anything. It softened the area a bit and added shine, but if you have very dark undereye circles and you're not getting a lot of actual coverage from a product, shining a spotlight on the area is not optimal. You can see this in the before and after picture above: my undereye area is still dark, but now it looks slightly softer (good) and ashier (nooooooo).

Because it didn't do much for my undereyes, I decided to try blotting it on the two red cheek blemishes that were still somewhat visible through my foundation. Bad idea: the glowiness of this foundation bounced back tons of light, magnifying the imperfections. Those spots actually look white in the after photo. Now, this is marketed specifically as an undereye product, so it'd be a little uncouth to knock it for being worthless on blemishes. But it is disappointing that I couldn't find an alternate use for the product.

I tried applying this product with both a brush and my fingers, and neither seemed to alter the coverage or the finish.

You know what else is disappointing? The performance. This product dries very quickly. That's a trait I sometimes enjoy in a blemish concealer, since I don't want it rubbing off of my face. In an undereye concealer, however, it can emphasize fine lines and make the product harder to work with.

I was able to blend it over my undereye circles with relative ease, and I didn't fuss too much when some product settled in to my fine lines after about 15 minutes, since that happens with just about every concealer on the market. When I went to tap the product out of my lines, though, it would. not. budge. So each time I tested this stuff, I spent the day with blatantly shiny lines under my eyes. The one upside here is that the product is weightless, so at least I didn't have to feel those lines all day.

Oh, and hey, let's talk about that shade range again.

I mentioned I was a little miffed about the shade range when I first started testing this product, and a few people asked, "Why? You're so pale! I thought it running light would be a good thing?" Well, yes, I'm glad there's a shade for me. And I like that they separate undertones clearly: shades starting with a Y have a yellow undertone, shades starting with an R have a pink undertone.

But there are only 5 yellow shades and 5 pink shades, and the range runs light, and the darkest shade is described as being for "tan" skintones. Are you catching my drift? Are you seeing the issue here? If you aren't, go on ahead and do a Google image search for "Makeup Forever Ultra HD Concealer swatches." I'll wait.

What the sweet fuck is this shade range?! I regularly complain about shade ranges stopping at "white girl tan," but this takes it to a whole new level; this is whiter than monster truck rallies, pumpkin spice lattes, and New Hampshire.

Yes, there is room left for expansion--the red-based shades jump from R32 to R40, for instance--but why should we have to wait for people of color to be represented? It's an annoying trend in the US cosmetics market right now: base products are released with a small shade range, and anybody darker than about NW35/NC35 on a MAC scale has to pester the company to release deeper shades. Launching a product too early and forcing an already under-represented chunk of your consumer base to wait, nay, beg for a shade option is ridiculous. Creator Dany Sanz has been in the industry for decades, the brand is sold in numerous countries, and the Makeup Forever HD foundation range is decently broad. There's no excuse. Just wait a few months and release the product when more of the population is represented.

I like the feel and packaging of this concealer, but my praise stops there. As an underye corrector, it's far below standards, and it doesn't function as a blemish concealer, either. Unless you have the most barely-there undereye circles known to mankind and you're on the light shade of the skintone spectrum and you don't have fine lines under or around your eyes, give this one a pass.

RATING: 1 out of 5

This product is available at Sephora.com.

Bury Me With My Highlighters

As I've aged and gone deeper and deeper in to Holy Shit My Skin is Dry territory, I've developed a slight obsession with highlighters. More specifically, I'm on a never-ending quest to find the best cream-and-liquid highlighters for my stupidly pale skin. And trust me: I've tried dozens. You name it, there's a good chance I've tried it (or immediately written it off because the shade was too dark or sparkly). I like to pretend that I'm absolutely satisfied with what I have, but why lie? I'm always looking for something even better!

I've got 6 highlighters rotating in my current arsenal. All of them have distinct positives and negatives, which I'll outline in this post. I'm also going to provide some suggestions for similar products/shades if your skin is not as stupidly pale as mine, but you want a similar look.

ON POWDER HIGHLIGHTERS: I don't wear them anymore, but Shiseido High Beam White and Kevyn Aucoin Celestial Powder in Candlelight are two of the best options for pale/light skin on the market. If you want something more glittery, try The Balm Mary Lou-Manizer, but use a very light hand.

ON DRUGSTORE OPTIONS: There are no drugstore options on this list for two reasons:

1. There are very few cream/liquid highlighters available at the drugstore.
2. Most of what is available at the drugstore (Hard Candy Living Doll, Revlon Skin Lights) is too dark for my skin.

Practically Pure White Shades

Dim daylight on top, flash on bottom. From left to right: Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Pearl, MAC Cream Colour Base in Luna, MAC Strobe Cream.

Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Pearl, $41 for 1.7oz 

THE RAVE -- This is the most expensive-per-unit highlighter on this list, but it's also the most cost-effective if you look at it critically. A small amount of this super-glowy, slightly-shimmery creamy liquid will go a VERY long way. The packaging is a sturdy, clear, plastic bottle (so you can gauge how much you have left) with a pump that's easy to control. Makeup artist Lisa Eldridge helped boost this product's popularity, yes, but it's so gorgeous and buildable that it was destined for cult classic status regardless. Becca Pearl is my go-to highlighter for photography and nights on the town.

THE DOWNSIDES -- The Becca SSP liquids contain avobenzone, a sunscreen that may cause irritation or breakouts in some skin types. I haven't had any problems with flashback, but I'm incredibly pale; people with darker skin tones will want to really test this sucker out in flash photography if they're interested in wearing it for, say, a wedding. A lot of people advocate using this all over your face and/or mixing it in to your foundation, but I think the slight shimmer makes this a less than optimal choice.

IF YOU'RE NOT SUPER PALE -- Becca has many SSP shades. Opal is the go-to for people with medium/tan skintones, and if you're darker skinned, you've got two great options: Rose Gold and Topaz. I think the Rose Gold shade is limited edition...if it is, they need to make it permanent, because there's nothing else quite like it.

MAC Cream Colour Base in Luna, $21 for 0.12oz

THE RAVE -- One of the newest additions to my collection, Luna is the culmination of years of lust and waffling. I've owned other CCB shades before (namely Pearl and Hush), but sent them off to better homes in favor of paler pastures. Luna, however, is straight up white and glowy. It is one of the best options for the palest of pale skins. Luna is very buildable: you can use a small amount for a natural glow (one of my male friends does this, and it's virtually undetectable on his skin), or you can layer it for a stronger shine. I also find it incredibly long-lasting, in part because of the slightly sticky texture. As a bonus, the small pot = travel friendly.

THE DOWNSIDES -- That sticky formula will get on some people's nerves, particularly if you're an oily-skinned person. It can also feel a bit heavy on the skin if you apply too much. If you're easily squicked by pot packaging, this is definitely not the product for you.

IF YOU'RE NOT SUPER PALE -- Again, the MAC CCBs come in many shades; Hush and Shell are nice options for light to medium skintones. If you're very dark skinned, you'll want to look to another cream product, like Illamasqua's Gleam Cream in Supernatural.

MAC Strobe Cream, $10 for 1oz

THE RAVE -- This is the cheapest and most versatile product on this list. While it's most often used as a highlighter, it's technically a moisturizer, and a decently formulated one at that. This stuff works great under foundation for a little "boost," if you're dry and dehydrated like I am this winter. The super-thin formula makes Strobe Cream just about impossible to overdo. It's my go-to for work because it looks so seamless and natural. I like to mix some of this in to my body lotion before a special event to give a little extra glow to my skin.

THE DOWNSIDES -- The full-sized bottle is a bit of a trap: you pay more per ounce than you do for the travel-sized bottle. Strobe Cream tends to dry and cake up around the opening of the tube, leaving a disgusting gummy residue; I have to wipe it with a baby wipe about once a month. Because this is a moisturizer, it might eat away at some of the foundation underneath, particularly if you're oily skinned.

IF YOU'RE NOT SUPER PALE -- MAC occasionally releases limited edition "bronze" versions of Strobe Cream, usually with the summer collections. Burberry Fresh Glow has a very similar effect and comes in two different shades.

Slightly Tinted

Dim daylight on top, flash on the bottom. From left to right: Makeup Forever Uplight #11, RMS Beauty Living Luminizer, Benefit High Beam

Makeup Forever Uplight #11, $29 for 0.55oz

THE RAVE -- Any time somebody asks for a highlighter that's dewy rather than sparkly, I give MUFE a shout out. The Uplights are some of the best and most underrated highlighters on the market today. The gel formula is incredibly light and blendable, and like the Becca SSP, a little goes a long way. I find that few highlighters look quite as luminous and "lit from within" (whatever that means) as MUFE Uplight #11. This shade has a definite pink tinge to it.

THE DOWNSIDES -- The packaging for this stuff is HORRENDOUS: the pump is always getting clogged with dried-out product, and it's difficult to control how much is dispensed. This gel formula dries quickly, so you have to work fast.

IF YOU'RE NOT SUPER PALE -- Unfortunately, Makeup Forever only makes two Uplight shades in the "dewy" finish: #11, seen here, and #12, a soft yellow. They may go ashy on dark skin tones. If you really want the dewy effect, but you're worried about how such pale shades will sit on your skin, try getting a sample and mixing a small amount of the Uplight with your foundation.

RMS Beauty Living Luminizer, $38 for 0.17oz

THE RAVE -- If you have dry skin and your highlighter loves to settle in to your fine lines, this may be the product for you. The RMS Beauty Living Luminizer is always slightly see-through, even when you layer on tons of product, which means you'll always see your skin through the product and it'll never look heavy. It has an incredible glow to it and, although it's slightly sparkly up close, it tends to look quite natural and gorgeous in photographs. I let my mom borrow this on the rare occasions when she wears makeup, and it always looks beautiful on her. Although it looks close to white in the swatch photo, there's a slightly yellow-gold pearl in here that warms the product up.

THE DOWNSIDES -- This product is basically mica and a few other ingredients in coconut oil, so it's not the best option for people who are oily skinned, live in humid climates, or are allergic to coconut oil. The brand's creator and namesake, Rose Marie Swift, apparently thinks makeup that lasts all day is a bit unnatural, so this is not a luminizer that's designed to last all day in extreme conditions.

IF YOU'RE NOT SUPER PALE -- RMS Beauty's Buriti Bronzer is basically the same product with a different coloration. The warm, bronzey tone is fantastic for accentuating dark skin. As an added bonus, it's less expensive than the Living Luminizer.

Benefit Moon Beam, discontinued

THE RAVE -- The shade of this highlighter is like no other. Depending on the light, it can be a soft, glowing peach, a luminous pink, or a sparkly fuchsia. It's INCREDIBLY frosty and noticeably shimmery, so it's not for people who like a natural look. I personally wear it on my rare "heavy makeup" days, or when I'm spending the night in a dark drag bar. It looks absolutely incredibly in low light and photographs like a dream.

THE DOWNSIDES -- The most obvious downside is that Benefit discontinued this product because they hate us and want us to be unhappy for reasons. Benefit's other highlighters--High Beam and Sun Beam--are pretty, but not as unique as this one. Also, the infamous Benefit packaging sucks bigtime: you apply the product with a brush akin to a nail polish applicator, and it feels weird and makes it difficult to dot the stuff on evenly.

IF YOU'RE NOT SUPER PALE -- You should still be okay with products like Moon Beam, since it's not exactly designed to look "natural." I haven't found anything quite like it yet (somebody, help me dupe this!), but if duochrome is your thing, try some of your satin-finish eyeshadows on your cheeks.

25 Tops: MAC Candy Yum Yum

There are some products that I just KNOW I'm not going to get rid of, but I feel like I should give them a real test regardless. Enter MAC Candy Yum Yum: a matte lipstick so neon, it makes most others look positively plain.

Oooh, alliteration! *English teacher*

A blue-based, neon pink with great wear time, Candy Yum Yum definitely goes in to my KEEP pile. No, I don't get to wear it often (it's not exactly work appropriate), but it's a showstopper when I go out for the night. You can also blot this on for a stain that's absolutely wearable, so keep that in mind!

Surprisingly, just about everything else in this pile is a KEEP: my Makeup Forever Uplight in #11 (I wish they made a white/pearl shade with this dewy finish!), my Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer, and the Kiss Me Touch Me Lip2Cheek in 02 Peach (actually a pink color, but whatevs). This particular shade of KA SSE is Sx02, which is darker and more pink than Sx01. I think Sx01 is a better match for me, so I'll probably stick with that in the future when I repurchase, but I can get away with Sx02, right?

PS: I noticed that my Lipstick Queen Bright Rose Sinner lipstick wasn't on the list, and yeah, it has to stay. It was a gift from my mommy! :)

This puts me at about the halfway point as far as my lipstick collection is concerned..so it's time to be discerning! Man, this is gonna be tough.


KEEP PILE:
1. Hourglass Muse
2. Hourglass Riviera
3. Hourglass Icon (mini-size)
4. Chanel Dragon [D/C]
5. Lancome Pale Lip
6. Bite Beauty Velvet
7. Lipstick Queen Saint Pinky Nude
8. Lipstick Queen Jean Queen
9. MAC Scarlet Ibis [LE]
10. MAC Viva Glam Nicki [LE]
11. Urban Decay Native
12. MAC Candy Yum Yum
13. Lipstick Queen Sinner Bright Rose

PURGE PILE:
1. MAC Neon Orange
2. MAC Sounds Like Noise [LE]
3. NARS Cruella
4. NARS Roman Holiday
5. Lipstick Queen Saint Berry
6. Bite Madeira
7. Beauty Cosmetics Flouron

MAYBE PILE:
1. MAC Impassioned
2. Elizabeth Arden Poppy Cream

NEW STUFF:
1. MAC Relentlessly Red
2. MAC Sushi Kiss

STOLEN:
1. MAC Please Me

REVIEW: Makeup Forever Mat Velvet + Foundation

You know I'm getting desperate for pale foundations when I start trying every matte formulation in the book. My most recent test-it-out: Makeup Forever Mat Velvet +. Advertised as providing full (but variable) coverage with a matte, "powdered" finish that lasts for hours, I figured this product would be too drying for my skin.

Hilariously, it was actually very comfortable, and it had a pretty finish. And yet I find that disappointing.

MUFE Mat Velvet Plus retails for $36 for 1 fluid ounce. I swapped for the lightest shade, #15 Alabaster, which is described as a shade for "porcelain skin with pink undertones."

The foundation has no major smell, and it applies very easily: no streaking and plenty of time to blend before it dries. However, it was immediately clear to me that this is NOT a full-coverage foundation. One layer gives me light coverage, which I can build up to medium; as you can see here, my evil chin zit and undereye circles are still relatively visible.

Nor does it appear to be a "powdered matte finish" on my face...kind of impressive, considering I have dry skin. But because it had more of a velvety finish than a powdery finish, I was instantly concerned about how it would sit on oily skin.

Like most foundations, #15 swatches lighter than it applies. It was immediately clear to me that this foundation was too dark and too pink for me. It's not quite as pink as MAC Studio Fix Fluid in NW13 (see below), but it's definitely not a match for my neck. I'd peg it at about NW15 in MAC terms, with definite pink undertones.

All of those issues aside, I found this foundation relatively comfortable to wear. It didn't feel heavy and it didn't transfer.

I dotted some of my NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer on my undereyes and zits, then went about my day. After 6 hours, I noticed some definite shine on my nose, plus a bit on the normal portions of my face (chin and center of the forehead). The actual coverage, however, was relatively intact: you can see that my skin still looks quite even.

Overall, I wasn't wowed by the foundation. Yes, it was comfortable, and it had a pretty finish and decent wear. But how is this supposed to last on the people it's designed for--people with oily skin? And how does something with a "powder finish" get so freaking shiny? Mat Velvet + was a decent product for my skin, and I'd finish the bottle if it matched me. But I don't think it lived up to its claims.

RATING: 3 out of 5.

From left to right: Makeup Forever Matte Velvet Plus in #15 on top, NARS Sheer Glow in Siberia, MAC Studio Fix Fluid in NW13, Cinema Secrets Cream Foundation in PS501s-11. Filtered daylight on top, flash on the bottom. Please note that this bottle of NARS SG has gone rancid, so the color may be impacted.

REVIEW: MAC Studio Fix Fluid foundation

I recently swapped for a few generous foundation samples. At the top of my to-try list: MAC Studio Fix Fluid in the shade NW13. Now, NW13 is a bit darker than I would normally go for, seeing as my neck is N5 with cool yellow undertones. It's also touted as a matte foundation with decent wear time--not exactly at the top of the list for dry-skinned people. Regardless, I'm one of those people who is going to try just about every pale-ish foundation she can get her hands on.

MAC Studio Fix Fluid is advertised as a "modern foundation that combines a natural matte finish and medium, buildable coverage with broad spectrum UVA/UVB SPF15 protection." It comes in a whopping 35 shades, ranging from relatively pale to quite dark (NW58!), and costs $27 for 1oz. Essentially, this is supposed to be a gentler, liquid version of the infamous Studio Fix powder foundation, which is full-coverage and uber-matte.

From left to right: MAC Studio Fix Fluid in NW13, NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Chantilly, Paula's Choice Sheer Matte Tint in Level 1, Makeup Forever Matte Velvet + in #15.

Straight off the bat, I dislike the undertones in this product. Yes, there are some people who are super-pink or super-yellow, but new shades with more neutral, less extreme undertones would really improve this line. Also, let me repeat that I knew NW13 was going to match my face and not my neck; I still wanted to test out the formula and compare it to some similar shades. For the record, NARS Chantilly is the same shade as my neck.

Here's my face before and after a layer of MAC SFF, applied with a Real Techniques Expert Face Brush. (Don't be fooled by how pale it appears in the after picture: like many foundations, SFF applies very light, then oxidizes to its "real shade" in about 15-20 minutes.) It certainly does provide medium coverage with a satin-matte finish. So just like what it says on the can!

...kind of. MAC claims that this foundation is easy to apply and blend, but I found it to be quite streaky. I really had to buff the product in to get an even finish. I also found it difficult to build up the coverage, since a second layer made the product look very dry and cakey, even when I tested it out with a damp Beauty Blender. To be fair, one layer managed to look matte without looking fake or powdery, and that's pretty impressive on my dry skin.

My approval faded as the day went on. First of all, the foundation started to feel kind of itchy and heavy on my face, particularly around my temples and chin. That rarely happens, but it always turns me off.

What really killed it for me, though, was how the foundation wore on my combination-dry skin. Compare the picture on the left (freshly applied) to the picture in the middle (after 2 hours) and on the right (after 4 hours). I stayed in the air conditioning all day, and I only get super-oily on my nose--the rest of my face is normal or dry in the summer time. So how the Hell am I so shiny?! I thought this was supposed to be a "long-wearing," "natural matte" product--where the Hell is the grease coming from?!

Hence, Studio Fix Fluid isn't striking me as the best option for oily skin or summer outings. Oh, but it gets better...

...it broke me out.

Let's be clear: I am not one of those people who derisively refers to the brand as "MACne." I do not believe that all MAC foundations are the devil for acne-prone people, and I strongly dislike the internet rumors that every MAC foundation is going to eat your face alive. My personal opinion is that MAC is a "gateway" brand for many people, including people who are sensitive to a large number of ingredients and/or do not yet know how to properly remove their makeup at the end of the day. If more people are trying your stuff, you're bound to run in to more people with bad experiences. I've tried a number of MAC foundations over the past decade without a hitch, including Face & Body, which has been my Holy Grail for going on 3 years now.

That's why Studio Fix Fluid's negative impact on my skin is so weird. My breakouts usually consist of a few very deep, painful cysts, and they're primarily caused by internal factors (stress, diet, hormones, etc). This is one of the only external factors that has ever prompted a breakout, and the pimples are tiny pustules and white heads. They're also in weird places, like my nose (pictured above) and my temples. I was so surprised by the breakout that I actually tried to figure out what, besides SFF, could've caused it...but SFF was the only thing I changed in my regular routine.

In the end, my breakout has nothing to do with my overall rating of MAC Studio Fix Fluid. We all break out from different things, and there's just something in the formula that doesn't agree with me, simple as that. Rather, I have a hard time recommending a product that's supposed to be demi-matte and long-wearing, then doesn't last for even 2 hours on dry skin. It's also a bit uncomfortable to apply and wear. I'll give them some props, though, for having some darker shades, even if the undertones are extreme.

RATING: 2 out of 5.

Beauty Sightings: Marco Marco Spring/Summer 2014 Collection

A fashion show probably seems like a strange place to go for beauty sightings, as the models' makeup is often very homogenous and there isn't a whole lot of behind-the-scenes footage. But the Marco Marco Spring/Summer 2014 collection gave us a rare treat: a runway dominated by drag queens and transgender models, all of whom appear to have done their own makeup, if this behind-the-scenes treat is to be believed. And with a wide variety of drag queens comes a wide variety of beauty product sightings!

I see some Ru Glue (ie, an Elmer's glue stick, used to flatten brow hairs) and some Tresemee hair spray. Anybody recognize the palette?

Liquid liner; the shot moves too quickly for me to see, but it looks like it COULD be MAC Boot Black.

That looks like a bottle of Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua in that kit! Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. (I'd say it's Estee Lauder Invisible Fluid, but the cap shown here looks black, not blue. Y/N?)

The NARS Loves Los Angeles palette from 2013. I think this belongs to Willam, but that could just be the editing playing tricks on me.

I do believe that's an NYC liquid eyeliner! Hilariously, I notice that most drag queens seem to use cheaper drugstore liquid liners (Almay, NYC, NYX, MAC, etc). It's probably not cost-effective to buy the super-expensive options, considering how much black liquid liner the average drag queen uses.

I'm 99% sure that this is L'oreal True Match powder based on the lid of the compact and its overall design, but wow, what a yellow-looking shade!

A gratuitous porn shot featuring some MUFE and Smith's Rosebud Salve.

Speaking of beauty, can we all take a moment to appreciate the one and only Mathu Andersen? I dream of having him do my makeup some day. He is pure perfection.

GLORIOUS.

Now for a side note: I'll be away for my sister's destination wedding for a while, plus I'll be entertaining my boyfriend for most of May. With that in mind, BOGL will be on a hiatus for the rest of May. Posts will resume in June.

See in you summer!

Last Minute Gift Guide

The Bad Outfit, Great Lipstick Last Minute Gift Guide

I'm not usually the kind of person who gets in to "gift guides" or "stocking stuffer ideas" posts and videos. I think gifts should be personal, sentimental, and based completely on the receiver's personal interests. But a few friends have requested a list of recommendations for different "groups" of people, ideas for gifts that will please a sizable chunk of the population and fit a range of budgets. And as I'm never opposed to recommending new products or taking pictures of pretty makeup...

So here you have it: a quick and dirty list of readily available, $30-or-less stocking stuffers and Secret Santa hopefuls!

The Special Edition Sampler: Best Bite Set, $25 at Sephora

This adorable set of 4 Bite Beauty lip pencils comes in a super-cute, Christmasy-but-not-over-the-top tin that needs no extra wrapping. It includes 4 very different shades--a nude, a red, a plum, and a limited edition cranberry color--and is a great way to try a new brand. You can give one special person the entire set, or you can give 4 friends/children/aunts/whatever one pencil apiece based on their personal style.

Skincare Stocking Stuffer: Paula's Choice Lip Perfecting Gentle Scrub, $10 at PaulasChoice.com

Lip exfoliants would be way more popular if they were all as gentle and easy-to-use as this guy. The formulation is a soft, white cream with microbeads that you rub in to your lips to gentle slough off dead skin, leaving your lips supple and smooth. It's almost impossible to overdo it with this product, and you could definitely use it every day without trouble. For a little extra, you can purchase this cute set, which comes with the lip scrub and an all-over balm.

Cheap Find: Wet n' Wild Eyeshadow Palette in Comfort Zone, $5 at Walgreens.com

You don't have to empty your wallet to get a great beauty gift. The Wet n' Wild eyeshadow palettes are a fantastic budget buy, especially this collection of neutrals and greens called Comfort Zone. The shades are buttery, super-pigmented, and long-lasting. If the person you're buying for isn't into neutrals, no fears: there are several other palettes and sets, some super-bright, some soft and pastel. Be forewarned, though, that these shadows are a little delicate: don't shove them in a stocking if they'll be crushed or smacked around, because you'll end up with a powdery mess.

Great for Teens: Paula's Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint, $17 at PaulasChoice.com

The whole "this is great for teenagers!" line usually grates on me, because I think those tender years are best left to experimentation and personal taste. But I have to admit that most young people aren't quite used to carefully cleaning their faces--which can lead to acne and skin problems--and have a tendency to overdo it with heavy foundations and thick eyeliner. (Not that I have any experience with that...) So if you have a youngin' who is just starting to like makeup, consider a sheer, comfortable product like this tinted moisturizer. It's easy to use and to remove, and it has the added benefit of SPF30 protection.

"They'd never buy it for themselves, BUT...": Makeup Forever Uplight Gel Luminizer, $29 at Sephora

Okay, okay, so I brag on this product a LOT, and you're all sick of it. But I really do think this is one of the most underrated highlighter formulations out there. Not only do you get three different finishes--dewy, shimmery, and glittery--but you also get a lightweight, layerable formula that's easy enough for newbies to manage and sophisticated enough for highlighter addicts to appreciate. My personal favorite shades are #11, this dewy pink that flatters fair faces, and #23, a dramatic, shimmery gold that looks beautiful on deeper skintones.

For the Easy-Going Beauty Fiend: Becca Beach Tints, $25 at BeccaCosmetics.com

Not everybody is as makeup obsessed or anal retentive as I am. Some people want a product that's easy to use in a variety of situations. Becca Beach Tints definitely fit that bill. Semi-sheer and packed in to travel-friendly tubes, these little beauties are great on your bare face or over foundation. They're particularly popular with--surprise surprise--beach goers! I personally don't care for the formulation on my lips, but they are a multi-use product that can be used all over your face, which will make them even more appealing to low-maintenance friends.