FOTD: Red Lipstick, No Mascara

Makeup artists have this incredible ability to make awe-inspiring looks appear easy and manageable. In this age of YouTube, Instagram, and blogs, we have more access to these artists and their work than ever, including tutorials they make themselves. Over the past year, there's been one oft-repeated suggestion that has stuck with me: skip mascara.

"You know," the makeup artists say coyly as they brush up their models' already-perfect brows, "you could leave the eye makeup here. With skin this glossy and perfected, and with brows this full, you could totally skip mascara." Some of them add, "With a red lipstick, this would be so chic and Parisian," which always makes me cringe a bit because it taps in to an idealized, fetishized, commodified woman who doesn't really exist. After that cringe, though, I'm basically sold, because red lipstick. I'm a simple Pittsburghese woman.

As dramatic as it sounds, I've been trying to do this for months, and I just haven't been able to do it. I'd spend a solid 20 minutes perfecting my base makeup and brows, then I'd put on my bright lipstick and tell myself, "Okay, you're done." But I always caved and brushed on some mascara before I left the house. I just felt weirdly incomplete without that mascara.

Today, I forced myself to put away the mascara. And I have to be honest: I kind of like it. It's nice to know that the only things I'll really have to touch up are a dash of undereye concealer and some post-dinner lipstick. There won't be any black smudges or smears or flakes.

Accepting my nearsightedness actually makes me like this look even more. With my very necessary glasses on, you can't really see much around my eyes EXCEPT for my brows--you'd have to get damn close to see my lashes behind the lenses. I've been thinking about buying a few more pairs of glasses and treating them like fashion accessories in and of themselves; skipping eye makeup and pairing them with a strong lip color seems like a great way to emphasize both the lipstick and the glasses.

That said, I'm not going to toss out my mascara any time soon. I still love the look of full, dark lashes, especially if I wear winged eyeliner or glossy shadow. But I'm glad I've finally listened to the makeup artists and tried the sans-mascara look.

BASE: MAC Face & Body Foundation in C1 + White; YSL Touche Eclat High Cover Concealer in 0.75 Sugar; Dolce & Gabbana Perfect Finish Powder Foundation in 50 Ivory [D/C]; Clinique Moisture Surge Spray

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CHEEKS: NARS Liquid Blush in Orgasm; MAC Strobe Cream in Pinklite

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EYES: Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Powder Duo in Medium Brown

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LIPS: NYX Lip Pencil in Auburn; Shiseido Modern Matte Powder Lipstick in 516 Exotic Red

ETA 5/26/19: I completely forgot to post about our recent donation--I'm so sorry! With your help, we donated $20.04 to the DNA Doe Project this month. Thank you so much! This summer, I'd like to collect donations for Planned Parenthood.

1P2L: Pencil Eyeliner with Glossier Colorslide + Glossier Play Mini-Reviews

Like most beauty bloggers, I assumed Glossier was about due for a "more full-on" makeup range, and I figured Glossier Play would be it. When they launched a range that prompted some excitement and a slew of criticisms, my initial feelings toward the four new cosmetics and two new tools were relatively mild. Yes, I was excited for the highlighters, but my reaction to highlighters is as instinctual and simple as my two-year-old niece's response to french fries. The lack of professional swatches on multiple skintones--something Glossier has been relatively good about for the past few years--leads me to believe that the launch was a little rushed.

All of this said, I received a slew of Instagram messages and emails when this line was announced, so clearly there's been some hype and interest surrounding the range. And frankly, a fun, colorful cache of products I could buy with the store credit you lovely people have earned me (thanks!) couldn't have at come at a better time. Between Kirby fighting a nasty bout of shingles and me being whacked with the depression hammer, the first half of March reminded me just how important fun and relaxation are.

Now, a lot of people have complained that this launch doesn't suit the "Glossier look." I can't entirely agree. For starters, there's a reason why they're launching these products under a sub-brand: they know it's not their usual no-makeup-makeup. But more importantly, this strikes me as "cool girl" party makeup, the kind of stuff naturally pretty people slap on their faces when they go out and want to try something a little different. None of it is designed for precise cut creases or stage-worthy Instaglam looks, and in my opinion, that's very Glossier.

There's also been a lot of debate about the design and environmental impact of these products. This delightful post from Auxiliary Beauty sums up most of my feelings about this. I'll add that I thought the 1970s-as-seen-by-Y2K-teenagers fonts and boxes were very cute. They hit me right in the "oh fuck that was middle school" nostalgia. However, like most people, I think wrapping each product in an extra piece of foil, then putting in to a box, is a wee bit excessive. It's also suspicious to me that Glossier claims they spent two years preparing this brand, yet they didn't think to use biodegradable glitter. Their consumer base is almost all Gen Z and Millenials, and we're groups that tend to worry about climate change and plastic consumption. To their credit, Glossier has listened to the criticisms; they will phase out the foil packets and plan on reformulating their products with biodegradable glitter.

Since I'm ranting, may I also point out that Glossier is STILL doing that "this is so unique and there's nothing like it" marketing, and it just doesn't work for them? Colorful pencil eyeliners and glitter gel have been around for decades, but they're releasing ad copy like this:

For the millionth time: there are more marketing tactics than the appeal to novelty. Customers like me are drawn to how easy and effortless Glossier's range is, and some are drawn to the "cool factor." But I'm not seeing a single, not-a-Glossier-rep person gushing over how "new" and "original" these products are. Play to your strengths, Glossier.

Enough complaining; let's get on to the swatches, looks, and reviews!

As mentioned, Glossier Play was launched with four new makeup products and two tools. The first makeup product is Colorslide, a range of colorful eyeliners. I got five shades: Adult Swim and Disaster Class for day-to-day wear, and Early Girl, Nectar, and Jumbo for experimentation and fun. All of these shades are matte, but there are metallic colors in the range, if that's more your gig. The Colorslide pencils are $15 each.

I've also sharpened them with the Blade sharpener. I get that a sharpener isn't something most people are going to lose their shit over, but this is a pretty nice one at an agreeable $4. It comes with a purple "cleaning stick" that you can twist in the sharpener to clean out the blade.

Next, we have those not-yet-biodegradable Glitter Gelees. I have three of the four shades: Glass Bonsai, Phantasm, and Firewalk. They're all technically suspended in a clear base and are, therefore, meant to be layered or used as sparkle rather than as full-on eyeshadows. But you can see that some of the shades contain a bit more of the fine shimmer, which makes the base seem less clear; this is most obvious with Firewalk. Phantasm, meanwhile, contains no fine shimmer and is all larger, more obvious holographic glitter shapes. Glass Bonsai is somewhere in the middle as far as opacity goes.

The product I was least excited for, shocker of shockers, was the Vinylic Lip. Yes, a liquid lip product in a click pen with a spongey applicator takes me right back to my first order from ELF, I'm not gonna lie. But I'm not a huge gloss person, and I find clicky pens a bit of a pain to use. It took me 41 clicks to get product out of Pony, and a whopping 71 clicks with Baby. I also find Glossier's color descriptions a little weird: Pony is less "taupe" to me and more mauve, and "Baby" reads more like a strawberry pink than a saturated, blue-based red.

By contrast, I was beyond hyped to see that they were releasing more full-on highlighters, because...highlighters. I purchased the two lightest Niteshine shades, the yellow-based Pale Pearl and the pink-based Platinum Rose.

Here are two looks I created with my Glossier Play products. (The only one not shown here is the Glitter Gelee in Glass Bonsai.) On the left, we have my attempt at something a little more full-on. I used the Jumbo and Disaster Class liners as bases, then added Glossier Lidstar in Cub to the center of my eye and topped it with two layers of Firewalk Glitter Gelee. I lined my lower lashline with Nectar. On the whole, I enjoy the eye look:

Interestingly, neither the Colorslide pencils nor the Glitter Gelee applied the way I expected. Glossier describes Colorslide as a "technogel eye pencil," implying it has a smooth gel formula. I actually found these pencils very waxy, and they tugged at my lids a little as I applied them. Disaster Class was especially difficult to use and applied patchy when I tried to use it as a base. Also, while I was able to get some intense color out of the Colorslide pencils, it took at least two layers to reach full saturation, sometimes three. And using these all over your eyelid when they're a waxy formula that catches? This can happen:

Yeah, that's frustrating.

In short, you can use these as eyeshadow bases, but it's a real pain in the ass, and some of the shades work better than others. These also take a little more effort to transfer to your waterline as compared to a true gel or khol-type pencil. If you're going to get these, go for the more pastel, interesting shades, like Nectar and Easy Girl, which are perfectly serviceable and can be tough to get in a decent formula. As a whole, though, I don't think these eyeliners are particularly special.

I had much better luck with the Glitter Gelees. Now, some people have complained these glitter gels made a huge mess on their face and left a ton of fallout all over their cheeks. In video reviews that stated this, I noticed that the person would apply the glitter to their eyelid, then immediately start blinking and moving their eyes all over the place. A product like this needs a minute to dry, so just be patient and keep your eye as still as you can right after application. I had absolutely zero glitter fallout or movement from all three Glitter Gelee shades after they'd dried, which sort of stunned me.

For the second, more natural look, I used Easy Girl and Adult Swim on my upper lashline to create a simple, slightly winged eyeliner, then lined my upper waterline with Adult Swim and tapped a bit of Phantasm Glitter Gelee at the corner of my eye. Phantasm is the glitter most people are excited about, and I can see why; it's just really fun and pretty.

For both looks, I used their Detailer to apply the glitter. A silicone applicator is definitely the best way to apply these, since it gives you more control and limits the mess, but you don't have to buy this one. Plenty of other brands make cheap silicone applicators.

Both the Colorslides and Glitter Gelees had great staying power; there was no fallout and minimal fading/smearing throughout the day. I use baby oil and cottons to remove them. The glitter is especially tenacious and should be kept out of your plumbing as much as possible, so you'll probably want to hold the oil-soaked cotton on your skin for a while to loosen it up.

For the more dramatic look, I wanted a super-shiny, very bold, definitely red lip, but I didn't get that with the Vinylic Lip in Baby. In fact, when I tried to layer it, I got only slightly more color, but I also noticed flakes on my lips that I didn't see before--see above. And it still never became "high shine" like Glossier promised. It's a thin, lightweight, decently comfortable formula with a faint strawberry smell. Nothing terrible, nothing to write home about. Frankly, I think Glossier should have produced colored versions of their regular gloss instead, since it is far shinier and more full-on than this formula.

I'll definitely get more use out of Pony, which I used for the softer look. One layer gave me that wearable, work-appropriate mauve shade that's perfect for work.

Last, but not least, we have the Niteshine Highlighter Concentrate. In terms of payoff and shine, I'd say these are like Glossier Haloscopes and Becca Shimmering Skin Perfectors had a baby: they're shinier and more obvious than the Haloscope, but they manage to do it without being sparkly a la the SSP. It's a nice product with a thin, liquid formula that can be built up. Just make sure you blend them out fast, because they dry within seconds. I'm wearing Platinum Rose on my cheekbones in the full-on look, Pale Pearl on my cheekbones and under my brows in the more natural look.

While I really enjoy these and will get good use out of them, I have two quibbles. First, the shade range is just plain dumb. Platinum Rose and Pale Pearl are almost identical on your skin, and the two darker shades look similarly close. If you're releasing glitter gel and colorful eyeliner, and if your ads are full of disco and rave-inspired shots, you should probably come out with some more interesting colors. A lavender, for instance, would've been an on-trend option. Second, these suffer from the same packaging problems as the Lidstars: the lids are small, smooth, and difficult to turn. Anybody with limited hand mobility is going to have a rough time opening these highlighters.

When it's all said and done, I don't think this launch is as terrible as some people are making it out to be, but I also don't think it's full of products you have to rush out and buy. True, I really love the Glitter Gelees, and I'll use the Niteshine Highlighters regularly. But one of each, tops, will probably be more than enough for most people. And while the Colorslide pencils and Vinylic lips aren't dreadful, they certainly aren't worth it when you have brands like Colourpop producing better stuff at a lower price. If Glossier wants to improve this range, I suggest that they:

• Fulfill their promise to use biodegradable glitter in the Glitter Gelee,
• Improve the shade ranges for several of the products, and
• Focus on creating what their fans have actually been asking for, like a cream bronzer or a tinted moisturizer/foundation with a bit more coverage. 

PS: I'll be taking a very short break from writing this blog to focus on work. I should be back by the end of March!

PPS: WHERE IS THAT GODDAMN CANDLE YOU PROMISED, GLOSSIER?!

Note: All of these products were purchased with Glossier store credit earned via an affiliate link. I have not been paid to test, photograph, or write about anything in this post. My reviews are always honest. Actually, Glossier is probably a bit sick of sending me so much free shit, given how poorly I've rated some of their releases. Sorry, guys.

Lipstick Diaries, Round Three: Besame Red Hot Red and NARS Michiyo

Pay no attention to the woman in front of the curtain with some slightly jacked-up base makeup; she was trying a few new products and didn't always hit it out of the park. Let's focus on the lipsticks instead! On the left, we have a shade that has slowly become one of my all-time favorites, Besame Red Hot Red. I've probably said that about every Besame lipstick I own, but it really matters with Red Hot Red because I once called the shade "redundant." Yes, it's still like Victory Red and Besame Red got together and had a warm-toned baby, but it's definitely a little different. I think it's one of the most flattering reds I own.

On the opposite end of the color spectrum, we have NARS Michiyo, a very cool-toned pink. I'm weirdly picky about shades like this, probably because they clash with my warm-ish undertones. Michiyo seems to have the "right amount" of clash, if that makes sense: it sticks out without looking bad. I wore this makeup to class this past week and garnered half a dozen compliments. Granted, I teach a lot of ELL students who are openly obsessed with bright lipsticks and will compliment me any time I wear one, but they were especially enthusiastic about this one. Michiyo has also has great staying power (especially if you apply, blot, and re-apply) and photographs beautifully.

Duping that Perricone MD "No Makeup" Look

A no buy tip I repeat often, in part because it works so well for me, is "focus on the look, not the products." This tip saved me from a $100+ purchase of Perricone MD products, which always tempted me because I love that "no makeup makeup" look and easy-to-apply makeup. By looking at the promotional images for the range, I reminded myself that the actual look they create is easily duped with stuff I already own.

Noticing the laughably tiny shade range for Perricone MD's No Foundation Foundation and No Concealer Concealer was already a turn-off, but it's also easy to see that these are not especially unique products. A tinted moisturizer with SPF and a serum-textured concealer? If you have a decent amount of makeup, you probably already own those. I replaced Perricone's foundation with my Philosophy Renewed Hope in a Jar Skin Tint, a favorite of mine, and lightened up by undereye circles with the Sephora Bright Future Gel Serum Concealer. I think that Sephora concealer is "meh," to be honest, because it creases constantly and fades after a few hours. Still, it gets the job done.

If you dislike tinted moisturizers, you could probably get the same effect by applying a similar sheer, skin-like concealer to blemishes and discoloration, then topping it with a bit of powder. You could also try sheering out your favorite medium coverage liquid foundation with a bit of moisturizer.

The easiest products to dupe were definitely the cheek products. The blush was at the top of my "wants" list until I realized that I already own a product that's the same damn color, the Becca Beach Tint in Watermelon. As for the highlighter, my original inclination was to use some MAC Strobe Cream. I decided to go with something even more natural and barely-there, so I applied a few dots of YSL Touche Eclat to my cheekbones. Normally, I wouldn't use this as a highlighter on its own, but I wanted to look like I wasn't wearing makeup, so...there you go.

Here's where things get a bit hairy: Perricone MD doesn't have a "No Brow Pencil Brow Pencil," or what the fuck ever they'd call it, available. And while a lot of makeup artists have created amazing natural looks that I'd love to duplicate, I've noticed that they pretty much always choose models with fantastic eyebrows. I, however, have terrible eyebrows. I tried to lighten them up just barely using a bit of Anastasia Brow Wiz in the back half of my brows, avoiding fuller front portions, but it still looks a little drawn on. Hey, I never claimed to be a makeup artist. At least I have eyebrows now!

As for they eye makeup, the replacement for the Perricone MD mascara was clear: Glossier Lash Slick. Used sparingly and applied with a light hand, it gives you that separated "I just got a lash tint" look I often love. To mimic the look of the No Eyeshadow Eyeshadow, I used some Catrice Prime and Fine, since it's a translucent beige color that camouflages the discoloration on my eyelids. I had no interest in the Perricone eyeshadow, to be honest, but a dupe is a dupe.

Finally, it was time to replicate the lipstick. The Perricone MD lipstick is a glossy, sheer, slightly warm pink--pretty, but easy to dupe. I decided to replicate it by dabbing a small amount of Kosås Rosewater lipstick on to my lips, then topping that with some Glossier Balm Dot Com. Kosås says Rosewater is a "cooler" pink, but I find that it reads like more of a watermelon color on my lips.

So there we have it: my attempt to dupe the Perricone MD "No Makeup Makeup" look. I don't think I was entirely successful, thanks to those eyebrows, but it did save me some money. Hurrah! No Buy 2019 is still on track.

Lipstick Diaries, Round Three: Besame Tango Red and Glossier Cake

I have enough red lipstick to coat my entire body a million times over, but damn if I didn't finally buy Besame Tango Red in a snap during Black Friday 2018. While this product's description and swatch photos I'd seen made me think this wouldn't be my most flattering red, I still wanted it. And I can now confirm that yeah, other Besame reds are much better suited to my coloring, but this is still a gorgeous shade. Tango Red seems very similar to Carmine in the tube, but on my lips, it reads more pink and less orange, and it has a more muted quality to it. It's a relatively unique shade among my slew of reds. I agree with Besame: this would be truly stunning on people with olive undertones or a deeper skintone.

Oh, and yes, I bought a new tube of Glossier Cake to test out the Generation G lipstick's freaking third formulation in the last five years. I've gotta say, I agree with most of the reviews that have come in: the new formula builds better, but is more drying and accentuates the lines in my lips like woah. Just look at how parched my mouth looks in this photo, and I'd JUST applied the lipstick fifteen minutes before! I like the shade and the sheerness, but the new formula isn't comfortable in the slightest and definitely isn't worth the money.

Lipstick Diaries, Round Three: Besame Victory Red and Colourpop Steelo

I try not to take photos of my makeup after I've been bombing around for a few hours, but that's what happened with this photo of Besame Victory Red, since I wanted to get to work a little earlier than usual. I wear this saturated, blue-based red to work a lot, actually, because my English Language Learning students love it, and it puts a lot of focus on my mouth. Trust me, when you spend 20+ minutes forcing them to stare at your lips to see where your tongue and teeth go for a "v" or "th" sound, you'll appreciate the help. While this is one of my favorite Besame reds and a shade I recommend often, I have to repeat that many dark-skinned people find that this shade turns pink on them. If you have deeper skin, you may do better with a shade like Red Velvet.

As for that picture on the right: your eyes are not deceiving you. That is, indeed, a lipgloss. Colourpop had a 20% off sale and I wanted to pick up a couple of their new-ish brow products, so I tossed in the Colourpop Steelo gloss as well. The internet insists it's a dupe for the original Fenty Gloss Bomb...and yeah, it's pretty damn close. (Granted, super-sheer pink with a bit of gold shimmer isn't hard to dupe.) The Colourpop glosses have a decent brush-tip applicator and a decent slightly sticky formula with a decent amount of shine, decent decent decent. I won't write worshipful odes to this gloss any time soon, but it's a solid product that I'm genuinely enjoying, and hey, I'm not the best judge of gloss to begin with.

As a final note, I apologize again for the washed out photo on the left. I'm bringing my sequin backdrop from Pennsylvania and may invest in a stronger ringlight to deal with the weird ass lighting situation in our new apartment.

Lipstick Diaries, Round Three: Glossier Like and Fenty Freckle Fiesta

Glossier recently reformulated and repackaged their Generation G lipsticks. I want to be less wasteful, so I'm holding off on replacing the shades I already own, including Glossier Like. This color is, no joke, just about the exact same shade as my natural lips, perhaps a hair darker and more mauve. On the one hand, wearing it makes me feel a bit silly because there's so little impact, but on the other hand, it's easy to apply without a mirror and it makes me feel put together. This is my second and likely last tube of Like, just because I prefer other shades that actually change the color of my lips.

The quality of that second picture is far below my usual standard, I know, but I won't be retaking it because I've decided to purge Fenty Freckle Fiesta. As beautiful as the color is, it just doesn't flatter me much, and I never reach for it of my own volition. It doesn't help that the round bullets are not my favorite; I'm sloppy and find it difficult to get a smooth, straight lipline with them. At the end of the day, if I can't see myself eventually finishing a tube of lipstick, I shouldn't keep that tube around, no matter how pretty the color is.

Lipstick Diaries, Round Three: MAC More Than a Woman and Besame Red Velvet

We're welcoming back the Lipstick Diaries with the shades from my most recent makeup bag: MAC More Than a Woman and Besame Red Velvet. While they look very similar in these pictures, they are absolutely different shades, I swear.

MAC More Than a Woman is an amplified cream from the recent Aaliyah collection. It's definitely a purple shade, which I normally shy away from, but this one has a lot of pink in it, which is probably why I'm able to wear it without looking like a total idiot. It also has the glossy finish amplified creams are known for. Paired with Sephora Deep Aubergine liner, I can see this being one of my favorites this winter. (Note: if you're wondering why this photo is so much darker than the other one, it's because it was a rare cloudy day on the great plains and I'm still figuring out my lighting. Please bear with me.)

Besame Red Velvet continues to be one of my favorite shades, and with good reason! It's a neutral, slightly deeper red that I think flatters almost everybody. This is one of Besame's "Classic Colour" lipsticks, so it has a more satin but-not-flat-matte finish. Red Velvet always nets me compliments, especially at work. My tube is in the special edition Agent Carter packaging, so you'll basically have to take it off of my dead body.

Charlotte Tilbury Mini Reviews

Charlotte Tilbury is a talented makeup artist, no doubt, but between her using the word "pop" a few too many times in her videos and her Into the Gloss interview that described wearing makeup to bed so her husband doesn't see her bare-faced, I've found it a bit hard to stomach her as a person. For a time, those feelings were transposed to her makeup line. I held off trying it for a couple of years.

Now that I have tried several products from the range, I have to admit that I'm impressed. Is every product as revolutionary and unique as she claims in her tutorials? Of course not; sometimes, a black eyeliner is just a black eyeliner. However, most of the range seems solid, and while there are some definite duds, there are also a few standouts that I would wholeheartedly recommend. So it's time to give them their due and write some mini reviews. (I've already written a full review of the Light Wonder Foundation, which you can read here.)

I purchased the Beauty Light Wand from Nordstrom earlier this year, and I gotta say, the hype is real. It's a beautiful champagne gold highlight that maintains a wet, glossy look even after drying down. It looks amazing in photographs and always garners compliments in real life. I've also used it on my eyes without any irritation or issues--your mileage may vary. I am a bit weirded out by the sponge tip applicator because you can't really clean it, but I like that you can lock the tube so it doesn't leak in your bag. It has become one of the stars of my highlighter collection.

The other three products mentioned in this review were sent to me by Influenster in preparation for Charlotte Tilbury's big Sephora launch. Let's start with the Hot Lips lipstick, which I expected to get in a more muted shade like Secret Salma and instead received in the very nude color Kim K.W. This is one of two satin shades in the range, and if by satin they mean "not matte," then okay, I'm fine with it. But for me, "satin" has always been between a true matte (with no shine) and a glossy, rich-looking cream, ie, most of the Besame Classic Color lipstick range. Charlotte Tilbury Kim K.W. has more of that plush look I associate with cream finishes.

Quibbling aside, it's a good lipstick. It feels comfortable on the lips, it isn't drying, and it photographs really well. It can look a bit smeary on me in real life, but I think that's just because the color is so light, and using a darker lip liner around the edges of my mouth definitely helps. That said, I won't spend $34 on another tube unless they make a shade I desperately want. It doesn't beat the aforementioned $22-a-tube Besame lipsticks, so it's not worth the extra $12 to me.

If any of the Charlotte Tilbury makeup products disappointed me, it was the Colour Chameleon Eye Shadow Pencil, which I received in the shade Champagne Diamonds. It's not awful, it's just...very meh. Based on the name and the description ("mineral, soft-focus effects transform and enhance eye color for a range of looks"), I expected something complex and versatile. What I got was a pretty but plain champagne color with some flecks of glitter, which looks ordinary and one-dimensional even in the above macro shots. Eh.

That said, the actual formula of the eyeshadow pencils is just fine. It's a bit dryer than I expected, but it applies smoothly and evenly, and it definitely sets. I had no issues with creasing, and I didn't notice any of the glitter dropping down on my face. Again, this is not something I'd purchase with my own money, but I'm not opposed to wearing it or recommending it. It's a wonderful product for long days at the office, for instance. I just expected a little more shade complexity from a $27 eyeshadow called Color Chameleon. I'll stick with the cheaper Butter London Glazen Eye Glosses for now.

Now...let's talk about the Magic Cream. I'm trying to be more restrained with my skincare snark, since I've gone through half a dozen bottles of a $24 cleanser that is objectively rather basic. But I think a $100 cream that claims to contain "patented anti-aging, hydrating, and youth-boosting ingredients" that can "fight the aging process" needs to back up its claims with more than run-of-the-mill cloggers. I'd joke that reading this ingredients list gave me nightmares if it weren't all so generic. Butylene glycol and glycerin are cheap-as-dirt moisturizers included in most affordable options. Dimethicone is a form of silicone, and it's often used in skincare to make it seem smoother and more softening than it really is. Shea butter is a lovely ingredient, but it clogs my face like crazy. So on and so forth. Basically, it's $100 worth of hype based off of a mixture of other moisturizers Charlotte used to slap on runway models' faces.

Even if I weren't rolling my eyes a little too hard at this cream, I wouldn't be impressed. As expected, it didn't patch test well on my face, but I could use it on my neck and hands. It was a wholly average moisturizer with a thick lotion texture that took some time to soak in, then provided adequate moisture. And that's it. I'm sorry, but for $100 a tub, you'd better make my dry-as-a-grilled-chicken-breast skin plump, soft, and super-hydrated.

The only thing I liked about Charlotte's Magic Cream was the soft baby powder scent that reminded me of my mother, and I only liked that smell when it was on my hands. I certainly wouldn't want my face to smell like that.

I know that three out of four mini reviews ending with "I wouldn't spend my money on it" sounds like a lot of negativity. It's not: the makeup is usually good, sometimes great, occasionally shit, just like most other brands. It's just that I have found cheaper products I like just as much (Besame lipsticks) or better (Butter London Glazen Eye Glosses), and in those cases, I'm always going to save a few dollars. The Charlotte Tilbury makeup products are still worth recommending, say, if you want a nice nude lipstick or a quick and easy eye color for work.

The skincare range? Not so much. I've looked at some of the formulas for other products, and I'll take a hard pass on trying those in the future.

Charlotte Tilbury products will be available at Sephora on September 13.

This product was sent to me by Influenster in exchange for an honest review.

REVIEW: House of Besame Debutante Sheer Color Lipsticks

For as long as I can remember, my mother has been obsessed with costume dramas. Does she actually care about the plot of The Age of Innocence or Downton Abbey? Well, kind of, but she openly admits that her primary attraction to those sorts of shows is the lavish clothing wealthy people wore at the time. Even after discovering that the sort of people she's looking at didn't bathe too often and, therefore, said lovely clothing probably had a bit of a stench to it, she's drawn to anything that promises corseted women swooning over their beaus.

Despite the fact that I hate even wearing a bra and get most of my ratty black t-shirts from the thrift store, my mother's love of costume dramas rubbed off on me, as did my brother's interest in history. This prompted a fascination with cultural norms and beauty expectations throughout the ages, particularly the Revolutionary War era and the 19th century.

So you can imagine how deliriously happy I was when Besame, one of my all-time favorite brands, released a picture of their new Debutante Sheer Color Lipsticks, which feature the Gibson Girl on the box. After I posted the picture on my Instagram story with the shrieking caption "OH MY EDWARDIAN GODDDDD," Besame messaged me and said they had actually sent the new lipsticks to me.

How excited was I for these new lipsticks? So excited that I immediately made my mother promise to forward the box to me ASAP if it arrived after I'd moved. After several stressful weeks of moving in to our new place a thousand miles from home, receiving these lipsticks was a treat.

The Debutante Sheer Color Lipsticks are advertised as part of the new "House of Besame" line, which seems to be inspired by turn-of-the-century luxury beauty routines. They arrive in matte, pink tubes with the traditional Besame flower logo. At $22 per 0.12oz tube, they are the same size and price as Besame's breakout Classic Color range. The main difference, of course, is that these are meant to be sheer. These also have a different scent: the original Besame lipsticks smell very faintly of vanilla to me, but the Debutante range uses peppermint oil for a light mint scent.

There are currently three shades in the range. Berry Red is, as the name suggests, a relatively neutral, popsicle-stain red; it's slightly less brown and more vibrant in real life than it looks in this swatch picture. Mint Rose is a soft pink. Chocolate Kiss is a sheer version of the same warm brown shade from the Classic Color range.

While these lipsticks are more sheer than anything from the Classic Color Range, they're not as barely-there as some sheer lipsticks, ie Glossier Generation G. One swipe will net you visible color. Mint Rose and Chocolate Kiss are very slightly glossy, but only slightly, and this easily rectified with a quick blot if you prefer a more matte look. Berry Red has more of a traditional lip stain look to it.

From left to right: Chocolate Kiss, Mint Rose, Berry Red.

I fully expected Mint Rose to be my favorite of the three shades. But while it's certainly the one I'll wear most frequently, being so work-appropriate and my-lips-but-better on y skintone, I think the shade that impresses me the most is Chocolate Kiss. I love the original, full-on version of this shade, but it can be a bit tough for me to wear brown lipstick past autumn. This sheer alternative seems like it will be more wearable on different skintones throughout all four seasons.

As far as wear goes, these perform about the same as most sheer lipsticks: they last for a good 3-4 hours if you're gentle with them, but they will fade quickly if you eat a full meal or drink a lot.

I have two problems with these lipsticks. My first complaint is honestly a bit petty: the names of the lipsticks are on the bottom of the tubes and on the white barcode stickers on the boxes, but they're not on the box itself. I always loved the "This shade is a true replica of a shade from ____" stickers on the Classic Color boxes; it felt like it fit right in to the aesthetic. Having to locate the name on an obtrusive white sticker makes the experience feel a bit less lux than I'd expect.

My more substantial quibble is that Besame claims these lipsticks are moisturizing, but I can't agree; I actually found that they could be ever so slightly drying by the end of the day. I think this is caused by the peppermint oil, which dries my lips out a bit; your mileage may vary.

While the Debutante Sheer Color Lipsticks are never going to usurp the many Classic Color Lipsticks in my collection, they've earned the right to sit in the same drawer. They're easy to wear, beautifully packaged, and have me excited for whatever else Besame is planning for this new range.

RATING: 4 out of 5

House of Besame products are available at BesameCosmetics.com.

These lipsticks were sent to me by Besame. As I made clear to the company, I only write honest reviews. I do not accept financial compensation for my posts.

FOTD: A Six Product Face and Floundering Wedding Makeup

(NOTE: The MAC Fix+ bottle actually contains Clinique Moisture Surge Spray. I just think the MAC bottle has a better spray nozzle.)

A friend of mine recently pointed out that, while she loves a lot of the makeup looks I wear, she has very little patience for the number of products I use when wearing a full face, in large part because her makeup bag is on the small side. It's always a bit weird for me to realize this, but even when I'm doing a "simple," "clean" look, and even though I almost always use relatively light, thin layers of product, I tend to use a lot of individual products. Even something as basic as this plum FOTD contains almost a dozen products.

So I decided to do a "five product face," which is one of my favorite Instagram and YouTube tags. I ended up using six products because I have such dry skin except for my oily nose and eyelids, but you could easily skip the eye primer or moisture spray I used if you were trying to conserve room in your bag.

For me, the real trick to reducing the number of products you need is using everything for more than one purpose. I applied my Philosophy Skin Tint in a thin layer all over my face, then tapped a tiny bit more on areas where I needed more coverage, like my undereyes. I mostly used the Kat Von D pomade for my brows, but I also pressed a bit in to the outer half of my upper eyelid to make my lashes look thicker. (This obviously looks better when my eyes are open and I'm not being photographed by an HD camera.) Lastly, I used my newest Besame lipstick, Exotic Pink, on both my lips and cheeks. Just remember that if you want to use your lipstick as a blush, it usually works best to dab it on the back of your hand, then rub your finger in to it until it warms up and thins out.

BASE: Philosophy Renewed Hope in a Jar Skin Tint, Clinique Moisture Surge Spray

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CHEEKS: Besame Classic Color lipstick in Exotic Pink

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EYES: Catrice Prime and Fine Eyeshadow Base, Kat Von D 24 Hour Super Brow Long Wear Pomade, Glossier Lash Slick

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LIPS: Besame Classic Color lipstick in Exotic Pink

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My makeup for this summer wedding season isn't going quite so well, however. I managed to get a beautiful Vince Camuto dress for $30, and while I think it's perfect for these special occasions, I'm...kind of at a loss of what makeup to wear with it. I'm so used to wearing the same basic color palette of black, gray, rich blue, and (to a lesser extent) white that I'm really out of my comfort zone with something so colorful. I mean, even my patterned clothes are mostly black and white.

I decided to do something based on the periwinkle, almost-lilac shade of the dress background and the pink flowers. But the look I came up with seems a little too soft. The best way to fix it, from what I'm seeing, would be to add more definition around the eyes. But how do I do that without making the look too dramatic for the day and limiting how sweatproof it is? What about a navy winged liner to match the hem--would that be a better choice? I need heeeelp!

BASE: MAC Face & Body foundation in C1 + White, NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Chantilly, L'oreal Magic Lumi Highlighter in Fair, Dolce & Gabbana Powder Foundation in 50 Ivory [D/C]

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CHEEKS: Glossier Cloud Paint in Puff, Glossier Haloscope in Quartz

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EYES: Urban Decay Primer Potion, Glossier Lidstar in Lily and Moon, Laura Mercier Caviar Stick in Vanilla Kiss, YSL The Shock Mascara, Milk Makeup Gel Brow in Pilsner

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LIPS: NYX Lip Liner in Nude Pink, Rodin Luxury Lipstick in So Mod

I Did My Makeup with Single Use Samples

I have a weird obsession with beauty samples. I don't just mean the deluxe samples that are miniaturized versions of the full price product, although those are my favorites. I mean any kind of sample: foil packets of face cream, whiffs of perfume sprayed on glue and covered with a bit of paper in magazines, cardboard sheets with a swath of blush on them...you name it, I've probably hoarded it. But it's not wise to stockpile samples when you're preparing to move, and since that's my goal this summer, slash, I was feeling a little emotional about walking out of my college for the very last time, I decided to do a Face of the Day using only samples.

There was one minor snafu: the foundation sample I'd gotten from a MAC associate some time last year definitely smelt off. Also, I've yet to see a single use mascara sample. For those reasons, I used products already in my collection for my foundation and mascara. Everything else is from a sample card or sachet.

The above photo shows my starting point: a thin layer of Buxom Some Show Skin foundation mixed with a dot of MAC Strobe Cream, pressed in to my skin with a Beauty Blender. I put my mascara on later.

The first sample I used was the Laura Mercier Flawless Fusion Ultra Longwear Concealer in 1N. I almost always hate the totally flat foundation and concealer samples that include just a dot of product under a sticker because it's never enough to do your face. So imagine my surprise when I tapped my finger in to that little smear of concealer, dabbed it on my undereyes, and immediately realized I'd applied too damn much. Despite being a thin, lightweight formula, this stuff has a surprising amount of coverage; I was able to put a-bit-too-much on my undereyes and soften up my forehead blemish. There was some creasing in my fine lines after an hour or two, but I think that's because I used too much concealer, and it was easily tapped out. I actually taped that stupid sticker down so I could re-use the sample! So far, so good.

Next, I used the Bite Beauty Multistick in Biscotti for blush. Experiencing the texture of these reaffirmed what I said in my anti-haul: they're nice for the cheeks and might work on the eyes in a pinch, but the formula is just too stiff for my lips. You can see that the product actually popped out of its blisterpack, showing that it's drier than it looks.  That said, it blended out decently, and I got a ton of product in that little packet. I'm considering taking one of the other two shades from that sample to Toronto this summer so I don't have to pack as much.

Last, but not least, I applied a little Peter Thomas Roth 24K Gold Pure Luxury Lift and Firm Prism Cream to my cheekbones as a highlight. I've used this product before and I like it just fine, but the color is more golden than I usually go for, and it's certainly not worth the massive price tag. I also think the skincare benefits are overstated, but to be honest, I wouldn't apply something this frosty all over my face, anyway. ("But, Renee, the MAC Strobe Cream"--is not as gold or as frosty; stop pointing out my hypocrisies, dammit.)

Everything's great so far, right? My skin looks good and nothing is performing horribly. This is going to look amazing!

Hold up. This is me. I have to ruin things.

You see, I got a sample of the Anastasia Beverly Hills Dipbrow Pomade. And I've used Dipbrow before and truly enjoyed it. So what's the issue?

Well, my friends, they included a brush with the sample. I applaud the effort, but really, I don't know who is going to actually use this extremely tiny, not-the-best-quality brush to apply such a pigmented product!

Except yes I do, and it's me. I'm the one who said I was going to do as much of my face with samples as I possibly could, and that brush counts as a sample!

Adults get to make choices. I am not proud of this one. Let's move along, because the next thing on the list is actually damn good.

It's the Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion in Sin. Look, I remember when there were YouTube feuds over whether the original Urban Decay primer was better than my standby, Too Faced Shadow Insurance. (UDPP vs. TFSI, anyone?) Frankly, I remember liking them about the same; the only real difference was that I thought the Too Faced had a slightly nicer texture, and that's why I've kept using it. But ooooh, the Sin shade! It's frosty champagne goodness that applies smoothly and looks like eyeshadow. Seriously, if I wanted to pretend I was trying, I could throw this on, add another color to my crease, do some quick liner, and call it a day. Suffice to say that Sin went straight to my Sephora wish list.

 I always have to cut these types of samples open. It sucks. Please stop, beauty companies.

The lipstick was not quite as successful. It's the NARS Powermatte Lip Pigment in the shade Who Fucking Knows, It's Not On The Packaging. I checked the fancy box it was tucked in and the annoying chastity belt of a foil packet that held the applicator, and nothing. I thought it was American Woman, but the shade on my lips is far cooler and more purple than the warm, chestnut-y shade they show on Sephora.

Your guess is as good as mine. As for the formula, it's pretty solid as far as liquid lipsticks go: it's a thin, smooth liquid that's opaque with one layer, it starts drying down within a minute, and it lasted through cookies, spring rolls, and a glass of wine. Yes, that's what I ate for dinner. Again: choices.

It's tempting to say that this was just a funny one-off experiment that went totally awry, but I did learn some things. For starters, I'm way more likely to buy a product if I get several uses out of the sample. The Urban Decay sample provides more than enough primer for the upcoming week, so I taped off the little opening in the packet and put it away in my container. Compare that to the NARS liquid lipstick, which you can't store properly after pulling out the applicator. In that vein, there is clearly some packaging that is less frustrating than others. If I can't reseal it, I toss it, no matter how well the product works. Companies, if you want us to fall in love with your line via samples, you gotta give us some easy-to-open, easy-to-close packaging!

And of course, this proves that samples work. Like I said, I put the Urban Decay primer on my wishlist right away, I'm interested in trying the Laura Mercier concealer more, and while it's not my cup of tea, I'd have no issue recommending the NARS liquid lipsticks based on my experience.

So keep sending us new and improved samples, beauty companies, because we love them and they work! ...but don't let me have any more for now. I can't be stuffing taped-up blister packs of blush in to my luggage.

Moderate Stash: Highlighters

Despite the fact that I'm borderline obsessed with highlighter, I don't write about it much. It's been over three years since my last collection post. Maybe I'm just too busy trying foundations and raving about lipsticks; regardless, I've done my highlighter stash a disservice, and that must be rectified.

Now, when I announced on Instagram that I was writing this post, I received some wonderful recommendations from followers, like "Tell us how long they last." Part of the problem, though, is that...I don't generally have a problem with my highlighters fading. This is partially because I use creams and liquids exclusively, and they're more likely to "stick" to your skin, and partially because my skin is uber-dry, so makeup clings to it. That said, I'm going to do my very best to give you a useful description of the finish, color, wear, packaging, and purpose of all of these highlighters.

Please note that this information was accurate at the time of this post. Prices change, new shades are created, old shades are discontinued, formulas are altered, etc. I mean, damn, MAC lipsticks weren't even $15 when I bought my first one, and now they've crept up to $18, fifty cents more per tube at a time. Time is a great thickener of things products.

Lastly, my birthday is coming up next week! If you've enjoyed my blog and want to show your appreciation, please consider (but don't feel required to) leave me a "tip" on Ko-Fi. I donate all of the tips to charity; right now, my charity of choice is Pro Literacy. If that's not in the cards for you right now, no problem! I love "happy birthday" comments and emails as well. :)

MAC Strobe Cream in Pinklite

Cost: $34 for 1.7oz, $12 for 1oz
Formula: Lotion
Packaging: Squeeze tube.
Other Shades: Goldlite, Peachlite, Redlite, Silverlite (1oz size only available in Pinklite)
Finish: Natural
Color: Faintly pink and opalescent.
Description: I've gone through at least three of the travel size Strobe Cream tubes, and now that they've expanded the shade range, I can see me emptying dozens more. This is actually a luminous moisturizer, and you can absolutely use it in that capacity if you don't mind the shine and need just a bit of hydration. Because of the thin lotion texture, it appears incredibly natural and seamless on the skin and gives you that no-makeup-makeup, "I slept really well" look. I usually use this as a highlighter on foundation-free days for work (left photo), or I mix it in to my foundation and use a dab more on top of my cheekbones for a soft glow (right photo). Note: the travel size tubes are actually cheaper by the ounce, but as of right now, you can only get them in the original Pinklite shade.
Purchase: MAC Cosmetics

ELF Beautifully Bare Targeted Natural Glow Stick in Morning Dew

Cost: $4 for 0.08oz
Formula: Oil Stick
Packaging: Twist up stick.
Other Shades: Pink Pearl Glow, Champagne Glow
Finish: Wet
Color: Clear
Description: I was pretty bummed when I realized the Ciate Dewy Stix contained some of my no-no ingredients, then thrilled when The Critical Babe mentioned this much cheaper product as an alternative. While the other two shades are a bit garish and sparkly, Morning Dew is completely clear and gives you a "wet skin" look in seconds. That's not shocking when you look at the ingredients and feel this product on your skin: it's an actual oil stick, not a traditional highlighter. This means it will look super glossy and gorgeous without being sparkly, but it will also stay tacky on your face and may seriously clog some people. Also, while $4 is a great price, you're not getting a ton of product here, so keep that in mind if you plan on using this highlighter regularly.
Purchase: ELF Cosmetics

Glossier Haloscope in Quartz

Cost: $22 for 0.19oz
Formula: Cream Stick
Packaging: Twist up stick.
Other Shades: Topaz, Moonstone
Finish: Glossy; can look wet in some lights.
Color: Very Pale Champagne
Description:  Like the ELF Beautifully Bare Targeted Natural Glow Stick, this is an oil-laden highlighter in stick form. I refer to it as a "cream stick," though, because it has a smoother, less oily texture and a bit of fine shimmer in it for a dash of color. (It still stays sticky on the skin.) That might sound unattractive, but I love the ease of this highlighter, which I can swipe on and blend out in less than a minute. The mixture of smooth oils and barely-there color make it ideal for photographs, where it catches the light will still looking incredibly natural. This is probably my personal favorite Glossier product. I have tried the other two shades, and while Moonstone was a bit meh to me, I really liked Topaz. It's just too warm and dark for my skintone.
Purchase: Glossier

Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Beauty Light Wand in Spotlight

Cost: $38 for 0.4oz
Formula: Liquid
Packaging: Squeeze tube with a sponge tip applicator and on/off mechanism.
Other Shades: none
Finish: Glossy; slightly metallic when layered.
Color: Champagne
Description: The cost of Charlotte Tilbury products generally makes me want to die, but because this one was a decent size and everybody was bragging on it, I decided to throw my Nordstrom gift card at it. I'm glad I did,  because I totally get the hype! It's a champagne-colored highlight with fine shimmer that gives you a light-catching, slightly glossy look; you can layer on a little extra and get a more metallic shine, but it's never going to be overdone. Now, is it as wet-looking as something like the ELF stick? No, but the benefit of the Charlotte Tilbury is that the liquid formula actually dries down. This means you can use it around your eyes as well. (Peep it on the inner corners of my eyes in the right photo.) I also like that the tube has a little on/off mechanism to prevent the highlighter from seeping out in your luggage or your handbag. The sole downside for me is that this is the only shade available, and because it is more golden, I have to use it on a full face of makeup to make it "fit."
Purchase: Nordstrom

Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Pearl

Cost: $41 for 1.7oz, $19 for 0.68oz
Formula: Liquid
Packaging: Airless pump for full size, squeeze tube for travel size.
Other Shades: Moonstone, Opal, Topaz, Rose Gold, Champagne Pop, Prosecco Pop (0.68oz size only available in Moonstone and Opal)
Finish: Ranges from natural to metallic, depending on how much product you use.
Color: White
Description: Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector is the OG "WOW THAT LIQUID HIGHLIGHTER" product, and it's still a tough one to beat. While it's costly, you get a ton of product, and the littlest dot goes a long way. Apply a small amount with a flat brush for a natural look, or layer it on with your fingers for that metallic "Instagram Glow." This is definitely a shimmery highlighter, but at least in the shades I've tried (Pearl and Moonstone), it's a very refined shimmer. Still, I'm not a fan of mixing this in to my foundation; it's just too shiny. The "Pop" shades purportedly contain chunkier glitter. Also, be aware that this formula contains sunscreen ingredients that some people find sensitizing. I've had my tube of Shimmering Skin Perfector since college and it's still almost half full, so I will be getting rid of it at the end of the year to be safe. If they ever make Pearl available in the easier-to-finish travel size, I will absolutely repurchase it.
Purchase: Sephora

Milk Makeup Holographic Stick in Mars

Cost: $28 for 1oz, $14 for 0.25oz
Formula: Cream Stick
Packaging: Twist up stick.
Other Shades: Supernova, Stardust
Finish: Shimmery
Color: Peach glow with faint purple shimmer.
Description: I wanted this highlighter in its original lavender shade, Supernova, for quite a while, but when I swatched them in my local Sephora, I realized that Mars looked much prettier and more refined. The peach base almost blends in to my skintone, leaving me with some shine and a bit of purple shimmer that's only visible when you're very close to me. In other words, this is sparkly and far from natural, but it isn't outright glittery. The texture of this cream stick is a little more powdery than the Glossier or ELF products, and it dries down more on my skin. It's not a shade I reach for regularly, since I tend to prefer "natural" or "glossy" to "shimmery," but it's damned pretty and works well for nights out. Note: while the 1oz size of this is technically a much better value, that's a ton of highlighter to finish up, and I'm not sure most people could manage it. I definitely encourage you to get the minis instead.
Purchase: Sephora