Products I Wouldn't Repurchase

Posts like this mark the rare instances when I miss my YouTube days. It's easier to explain that you wouldn't repurchase a certain item because it didn't work for you rather than, "Oh, it sucks" when you're talking to people, y'know? Granted, people on YouTube could get a little crazy if you dissed one of their favorite products; I'll never forget the grief I got for filming a poor review of the NYC Loose Powder, or for pointing out that there were 2 or 3 Wet n' Wild products I really hated ("Why are you soooo negative?!?!"). But while I wasn't the most eloquent speaker or presenter, I always felt relatively comfortable with the idea that I was conversing, not writing.

Still, I think I can get my point across decently in the written word, so I'm going to try a blog post version of this very famous tag. These are items that I didn't necessarily hate, but they didn't wow me or suit my tastes. Hence, I wouldn't repurchase them. And if I could turn back time* and save myself a $20, I wouldn't hesitate.

MAC Pigments -- Anybody who frequented YouTube circa 2008 heard nothing but worshipful odes about MAC pigments. They were the best eyeshadows for bright looks and the most collectible, sought-after products on the market, save for Parrot eyeshadow. But I've owned a good 6 or 7 jars of the stuff, and I rarely used them. They were too messy for regular eyeshadow application, I don't like gloss enough to mix them in with a clear base, and most of the highlighting/bronzing type shades are too glittery for my tastes. The two that have survived numerous purges remain for sentimental reasons: Jardin Aires was a gift from my father, and Vanilla is a holdover from my more active drag scene days. And they look nice mixed in to lotion or sunscreen, I guess. But truth be told? I bumped Vanilla on to the ground while I was taking this picture, and I was more pissed about having to clean a teaspoon of powder out of bathroom tile.

GLAMGLOW Tingling and Exfoliating Mud Mask -- I know I'm getting the side-eye for this one. I've mentioned it multiple times on this blog, and it's even been labeled as a Holy Grail product. None of that was a lie. But $69 for a mudmask that, yes, has great results, but is also quite harsh on most people's skin, is not something I can continue to support. The only reason I've gone through two jars is because I bought my first at half price (it was an extra tester), while the second was a very generous swap extra. I could get a similar effect by combining a decent kaolin clay mask with regular exfoliation. I'll miss you, my extravagant friend, but I think I'll get by.

Dior Instant Cleansing Water -- I had a brief love affair with this bottle when I first got it, but I've come to realize that...it's not really a necessity. Actually, it doesn't even work that well in its advertised capacity as a gentle makeup remover; it couldn't remove 90% of the products on my face. I figured I could get good use out of it after my morning walks, ie, it'd get the sweat off of my face before I put my makeup on. However, I walk primarily in the morning or the evening when it's cooled down/my makeup is already on, so that didn't work out too well. I've been using it for the occasional refresher, or to remove eyeshadow fallout before I apply foundation. Beyond that, it's just a pretty bottle on my desktop.

Clinique Bottom Lash Mascara -- Don't get me wrong: this is definitely the best bottom lash mascara on the market. The formula doesn't run, it never makes my lashes looked spidery, and the tiny brush is perfect for getting in to the corners of my eyes. The problem is that I tend to put most, if it not all, of my eye makeup on my upper lid to draw attention away from my dark circles. This little tube has lasted me so long because I hardly ever use it. Lovely for others, not a necessity for me.

Clinique Airbrush Concealer in 01 Fair -- Another Clinique item! Don't worry, they've still got some great products, and this is still a cult favorite for a reason. I openly admit that I bought this because of the Lisa Eldridge hype, only to realize that it didn't have enough coverage for me. The shade is also super-pink, so I can't use it on blemishes. Instead, I used this product as a corrector under or over other products to counteract the blueness in my undereye circles. Do I do that often? No. If you have very minor flaws to cover and you can find a shade that suits you perfectly, then this is certainly a good option; if you're like me and you mostly use concealer for the Undereye Circles of Doom, then pass.

Coppertone Water Babies Sun Lotion Spray SPF50 -- I'm a huge fan of drugstore spray-on sunscreens, particularly the Banana Boat sport options. But the damn things reek to high Heaven. I heard that the Water Babies line by Coppertone didn't have a chemical scent, so I bought a 2-pack of the stuff. Unfortunately, what it lacks in scent it more than makes up for in feel. It comes out clear for 2 seconds, then turns white, meaning you'll have to do a lot of rubbing-in (which defeats the purpose of a spray-on sunscreen). It also feels heavy on my skin. Finally, it's difficult to remove; I have to soap myself to get the stuff off, which is super-drying. It protects me from the sun, no doubt, but considering it covers me like a freaking blanket wool blanket, I'm not surprised.

3 Concept Eyes (3CE) Cream Blusher in New Pink -- When my hunt for the perfect not-sparkly pastel pink cream blush hit a standstill with the American market, some folks at MakeupAlley suggested I turn to Korean products. This tube seemed to fit the bill: it looks pigmented and totally plush on the model. Sadly, I feel for marketing. This blush is incredibly sheer; even on my pale skin, it took me 3-4 layers of the stuff to get a noticeable color. The formula also wasn't the most comfortable on my dry cheeks. Utter sadness. To the swap pile it goes.

Beauty Blender Sponge -- I'm going to get socked in the face for this one, I know, so let me say this: I can see why people love this sponge. It's definitely great for blending out heavier foundations, or for applying a cream foundation. But if you're like me and you favor light-medium coverage liquid foundations, all this sponge is going to do is soak up your product. It's rare that a foundation looks better on me when I apply it with this sponge versus, say, my fingers. Also, it freaks me out that the damn thing continued to leak pink dye after 6 or 7 washings.


* If I could fiiiiind aaaa waaaaay-uh! I'd take back those words that huuuurt you, and you'd stay!!!

And now, bonus puppeh!

My Skincare

I've sought out more modest ways to say this, but it turns out there aren't any, so I'm just going to tell it like it is: I have relatively nice, hassle-free skin. I think the relative clarity of my skin kind of balances out my crazy, difficult, lion's mane mop of hair, which is a constant source of frustration for me. Obviously, a lot of this is genetic: my mother, like me, was always combination-dry and pretty much acne-free. The women on her side of the family have always had quite clear, ten-years-younger-looking-than-you-actually-are skin. But I'm like my father in that I am ghost white and somewhat sensitive to certain skincare ingredients, like high levels of alcohol and salicylic acid. Figuring out my "skin genetics" and talking to my parents about what worked (and didn't work) for them really helped me find better ways to care for my own skin.

Another important factor in my skin's health is my diet. A few people have told me that diet doesn't affect skin, but I have to disagree with that based on my studies and my own experiences; the first year of graduate school, when I survived on a diet of absolute shit, wreaked havoc on my face. And as soon as I reverted back to my usual diet, the acne, flaky patches, and overall dull appearance cleared right up. I'm not going to act like I eat a "model's diet" of primarily raw foods and no fats or junk, because that's a complete lie, and I certainly don't think it's necessary for the average person. But I DO eat a lot of fresh veggies, non-fat yogurt, lean meat, and whole grains ,because..that's what I like. Seriously. I've always loved chocolate and I eat it almost every day, but my favorite food is a sweet tomato, and I never cared for most starches, fried foods, or processed products, even as as child. White bread tastes like cardboard to me. I don't get what the big deal is about white potatoes (although I loves me a sweet potato or a yam!). And I rarely drink carbonated beverages like Coke because I just...er, don't like them that much. My biggest "weak spot" is fruit--if I wanted something sweet, I'd eat candy, and if I wanted something substantial, I'd eat a vegetable--so I try to sneak it in and get my 3 servings a day.

For reference's sake, some of my favorite snacks include Fage 0% Greek yogurt with fresh fruit or honey and nuts, Triscuit crackers and goat's milk cheese, raw veggies with dill dip, antipasto bar offerings (like stuffed banana papers or sundried tomatoes), homemade whole grain Egg McMuffins, and Luna bars. As far as liquids go, I have a cup of coffee almost every morning, or a non-fat caramel cappuccino, and drink plenty of water throughout the day. Sometimes I'll make a fruit-and-yogurt smoothie or have some Bolthouse Farms juice. In the summer, I drink an iced chai almost every night; in cooler weather, I have hot cocoa instead.

And of course, chocolate. I fucking LOVE chocolate.

So maintaining a diet that works well for my body and keeping my family's skin history in mind are definitely half of the equation. But I've also done my best to find products that really work for my skin type and address my concerns. And while no one product can work for everybody, I have to say that I've used most of these products for years and stand behind them wholeheartedly.

Before I delve in to the products I use, I should probably list the concerns I'm regularly trying to address:

1. My oddball skintype. I call my skin "combination dry" because the majority of it is the freaking Sahara, with no sebum production whatsoever going on. But regardless of the time of year, my  nose and eyelids are always absolute oil slicks. This means I have to find products that will moisturize the majority of my face without turning those two "hot spots" in to an oily mess. My skin type does change slightly with the climate, and in a Pennsylvania summer, it's more like true-blue combination skin, with a normal-to-oily t-zone and dryness on the cheeks, chin, temples, and jaw. Regardless, I generally treat my skin like dry skin and look for moisturizing products.

2. My legitimate fear of the sun. I mean, c'mon, most companies don't even make a foundation that's a shade darker than me, let alone my actual Casper-white skintone. My MAC Face & Body? It's two parts white to one part color. So it's important to me to find skincare with a high SPF that won't make my face or body break out in teeny tiny reactionary bumps. Which brings me to...

3. Sensitivity. If I find a product that really does the job and doesn't sting my face, cause a rash, or suck any semblance of moisture from my skin, it's a given that I'll keep that product around. If a product DOES cause a problem, I have to sit down and figure out what ingredient might have caused that problem. Some of the ingredients I seem to have trouble with are alcohol, salicylic acid, and tea tree oil, although I can use salicylic acid on my body (below the neck) in small amounts. My face tends to be quite sensitive to physical pressure as well, so I try to use extra-soft brushes and gentle exfoliants.

3. Discoloration, the most obvious being the disconnect between my N5ish body and neck and N15 face. But I also have a lot of redness in my t-zone, the Undereye Circles of Doom, and an odd scar that runs between my nose and lip. If I get a zit, it takes about a month to fade, as the pigmentation tends to linger on my pale skin long after the pustule/cyst is gone.

I'm very stringent about removing my makeup. I've always used something oil-based to completely break down even the longest-wearing products, and the only times I slept in my makeup were the nights I accidentally passed out mid-homework during graduate school. I've been using baby oil as my makeup remover ever since I looked at the label of my Mehron remover and realized the primary ingredient was plain old mineral oil. I soak a Shiseido Facial Cotton in baby oil and sweep it across my face to start breaking down the makeup. Then I hold the cotton over each eye for 30 seconds to remove my waterproof mascara. When my face is good and slick, I massage the oil in to my face for a minute, stimulating the skin and breaking down the makeup even more; this felt super-gross and weird when I first started using oils, but now I love the feeling! Then I wipe a dry Shi cotton all over my face to remove the excess oil (which the makeup is still suspended in) and I hop in to the shower.

That's actually an important part of my every day routine: cleansing with Clean & Clear Daily Pore Cleanser while I'm in the shower at night, and ONLY when I'm in the shower. I find that if I cleanse more than once a day on a very regular basis, I stress out my skin, leading to dryness, flaking, and acne. If my skin is really haggard in the morning, I might splash it with a bit of lukewarm water, but that's it. After my nightly shower, I smooth a thick layer of Avon Nurtura Replenishing Cream over my face and neck. This rich cream is so incredibly moisturizing without being greasy or heavy, but it's also so cheap! I get it for $4 during Avon sales or on Ebay. I've used it for about 4 years now and would absolutely DIE if they discontinued it. I also rub some Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream on my lips to lock in moisture, and sometimes I put it on my eyelashes and cuticles as well. I technically don't wear the Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Liquid SPF60 every day, but I do every day that I'm outside for more than 5 minutes, so I consider it an important part of my daily routine.

Roughly twice a week, I exfoliate and use extra moisturizers. The absolute best facial exfoliant I've ever used is the humble konjac sponge, which I order from Chinese eBay sellers. A konjac sponge is essentially a dry piece of vegetable fiber that softens up in water so you can rub it across your skin in super-gentle, circular motions. Sounds weird and gross, I know, but it really works for me (as long as I apply next to no pressure--no need to be rough with your skin, especially if it's sensitive!)! I also exfoliate my lips, primarily before I put on a bright lipstick. I used to use olive oil and brown sugar, which worked great, but was super-messy, so I switched to the travel-friendly ELF Lip Exfoliator. Immediately after I exfoliate my lips and pat them dry, I apply a thick layer of the C.O Bigelow Rose Salve. This rose salve has a much oilier, more emollient feel than the Smith's version. If my face feels a bit dry and tight or looks dull, I use a pump and a half of Elizabeth Arden Let There Be light Radiant Skin Lotion. It works especially well under sheer foundations to amp up my glow! I just wish they hadn't discontinued this product; luckily, I have a back-up in the downstairs fridge. I use the tiniest bit of the Bobbi Brown Hydrating Eye Cream all around my eyes about once a week for extra smoothness; I don't need it, but it sure feels good. Because it's so damn expensive, though, I tend to stick with sample pots and use them sparingly.

I also have a few choice body products. I just started using the Coppertone Water Babies Pure and Simple SPF 50 sunscreen, but I'm super-impressed with it; it doesn't feel greasy/tacky or break me out the way most high-SPF sunscreens do. After I've applied my Shiseido sunscreen to my face and neck and my Coppertone to the rest of my body, I spritz on a layer of the Banana Boat Quick-Dri Sport Body & Scalp SPF 30 sunscreen, making sure I spray down my hair and scalp as well. It's pretty smelly, but it's one of the few spray-ons that doesn't make my hair crispy and greasy-looking. All of this sunscreen can be a bit heavy on my body, where I'm more prone to acne, so I exfoliate once a week with the St. Ives Apricot Scrub (technically made for the face, but it's far too harsh for anyone's delicate facial skin, IMO) and slather on generous amounts of the Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Intensive Moisturizing Body Treatment.

Finally, there are my emergency problem-solvers. I don't use these too often, but when I've got a major skincare issue, they're always there for me. If my skin is getting dull and tired-looking from travel, stress, or horomones, I liven it up with the GLAMGLOW Tingling & Exfoliating Mud Mask. It's a stupidly expensive product, and it can be quite harsh on the skin if you aren't careful, but once or twice a month? Man, it makes my face as smooth and glowing as a babydoll's! If I have a zit, I zap it with Clean & Clear Persa-Gel 10, which is a 10% benzoyl peroxide cream. It's quite drying, but it helps dry up the zits and calm the redness within a few days, meaning I only have to deal with the pimple's discoloration and not the texture. And while the Haus of Gloi Pumpkin Butter is too heavy and rich for me to rub it on my body every day, it's a life-saver on cracked hands and feet or on winter-time lizard skin, and it was my daily go-to in the colder, dryer North Dakota climate last year.

EDIT: Almost forgot to post a picture of the new skincare goodies that arrived today! :D One of my dear Paula's Choice loving friends sent them to me. Super excited for all of this, especially the mask!

FOTD: Warm Dragon, plus a mini-rave

Traveling seems to wreak havoc on my skin, especially when I'm in a very different climate and I'm lacking my favorite exfoliant, running low on cleanser, etc. By the time I got back from North Dakota (yesterday), my skin was blackhead-laden, lackluster, blemish-ridden, and just generally icky. Luckily, I still had half of a sample packet of this guy:

Image from Sephora.com

My skin looked SO MUCH BETTER immediately after I used this mask; it was glowier, smoother, and most of my blackheads had disappeared. My rockin' huge chin zit also looked like it had been reduced, but I didn't necessarily attribute it to the mask until I woke up this morning and it was basically gone. And it didn't completely dry out my skin. LOVE IT! Officially my new favorite product for when my skin is shot to shit. Unfortunately, a full size jar of this product is almost $70, and I wouldn't use it enough to justify the cost. Some folks have informed me that there's a tiny jar available at some Sephora stores for $20, so I might hold out for the Friends and Family sale and hope they stock it online.

All moaning aside, the GLAMGLOW mask helped get my skin red-lipstick-ready, so I whipped out my beloved Chanel Dragon. It's normally a darker, more auburn red, like the color of my glasses, but I wanted to warm it up a bit, so I applied it over a warmer, lighter lipliner.

BASE: MAC Face & Body foundation in N1 + White, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx02

EYES: Too Faced Shadow Insurance, CoverGirl Clump Crusher mascara, Shu Uemura Hard 9 Formula brow pencil in Seal Brown, Milani Liquid Eye eyeliner in Black

CHEEKS: Cargo blush in Catalina, Makeup Forever Uplight #11

LIPS: MAC Chromagraphic pencil in Basic Red, Chanel Rouge Allure Lacque in Dragon [D/C]