REVIEW: Kevyn Aucoin The Etherealist Skin Illuminating Foundation

Everybody has a brand that makes them weak in the knees. Even if most of their products are subpar or they commit a major faux pas, we forgive them and drool over each upcoming release. It's easy to scoff at brand loyalty, but at the end of the day, I think we're all prone to it. I know that's how I am with the Kevyn Aucoin makeup range: they announced a new "glowy," "moisturizing" foundation and I checked Sephora's website every morning until it launched.

The Kevyn Aucoin Etherealist Skin Illuminating Foundation is $58 for 0.95 ounces of product. (The Sephora website states that this is a full ounce, the box says otherwise, eh, it's not too far off.) It comes in sturdy plastic packaging with an airless pump that is easy to control. I know a lot of people dislike plastic packaging, but I prefer it because I'm clumsy, and I think this bottle still manages to look quite nice.

Flash on top, natural light on the bottom. From left to right: Kevyn Aucoin Etherealist in Light EF01, Buxom Show Some Skin in Tickle the Ivory, NARS Sheer Glow in Siberia, MAC Full Coverage in NW10.

 I purchased the lightest shade, Light EF01 (or just "1" on the Sephora website). It's reasonably fair, but has some strong peachy undertones. I find that they're more obvious in swatches, though, than when the foundation is blended across the face. There are currently 16 shades in the range, running from quite light to reasonably dark. The inclusive shade ranges are part of what has made me so unerringly devoted to the Kevyn Aucoin brand.

One pump was enough to cover my entire face and the top of my neck. I will note that this product dries quickly, so you'll want to work in sections. I didn't detect any fragrance.

The description for this foundation states that it will give you "medium coverage with a semi-satin finish," slash, "an airbrushed opinion," slash, "a radiant glow." That's kind of a lot and it's all a little different, but I interpreted it as "this is a medium coverage product that won't be matte." One layer of this product buffed in to my skin with a Real Techniques Buffing Brush does, in fact, give me a medium coverage, and the foundation does have a bit of a glow to it. It also spread very easily without streaking.

But...wait. Something's not quite right here. It has a bit of shine to it, yes, but it looks...kinda dry?

Oooooh yes, yes indeed, it clung to every dry part of my face and emphasized dry patches I didn't even realize existed. Immediately after applying this foundation, I noticed that the tip of my nose looked a bit patchy, the space between my brows was hideous, and my cheeks and jawline were looking rather dry. The above macro shot demonstrates the texture perfectly.

I'd actually used my 10% AHA the night before I tested and photographed this foundation, by the way, so my skin was about as smooth as it ever is. This was a little shocking.

Yet this foundation has some tricks up its sleeve. For starters, it was not only easy to The Etherealist across my skin, it was also a breeze to blend other products on top, like a Becca Beach Tint for blush. And if you stood a few feet away from me or looked at me through a camera lens, you'd see nothing but airbrushed glory--I took a screengrab of how I looked on my phone, with beauty mode clearly turned off, to demonstrate. How the Hell was this possible?

I'm going to have to guess that it's the silicones. While the brand claims that the Etherealist "boosts hydration" with hyaluronic acid, the biggest ingredient in this foundation is silicone. It shows up in many forms: dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, vinyl dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane...and that's just in the top 10 ingredients. Now, I'm not one of those people who thinks silicones are the devil incarnate (though they can aggravate some acne-prone and sensitive skins), but I do know that silicone doesn't have much in the way of skincare benefits. It basically provides slip and can create a "diffused" look, making products seem more emollient than they really are. The Etherealist is no different.

After 3 hours on the left, after 5 hours on the right.

I tried to give this foundation a fair shake and photographed it throughout the day. It wasn't always comfortable, though: at several points throughout the day, I found that the apples of my cheeks, my jawline, and my temples itched. This is probably because the foundation made my face slightly drier throughout the day.

My mother actually asked me, "What are all of those bumps on your forehead?" Now, I am human, and I do have some texture to my skin; namely, my forehead is prone to clogging. But any decent foundation will not make the fine lines and clogged pores on my forehead more obvious. This one did. By the end of the day, it was so, so, so dry.

Oh, except for my nose! It wore completely off of my nose after 4 or 5 hours.

This product isn't totally transfer-proof, either. It wore off under the nose pads of my glasses, which is normal, but it always came off on my finger and on clothing if I put any pressure on my face. This kind of perplexes me, given how quickly it seems to dry on the skin during application.

Honestly, I try to wear foundations for 6 to 8 hours to give them a real test, but I couldn't bear to wear this any longer after 5. When I removed it, I noticed a small amount of red irritation where I'd itched throughout the day. It had faded by the time I woke up the next morning. I gave The Etherealist a second chance, applying it with a Beauty Blender and topping it with plenty of moisture spray, but I got nearly the same results.

I'm giving this foundation a 2 out of 5 because I think it might be nice for normal to slightly oil skin in photographs, the packaging is great, and the shade range is inclusive. Yet even that might be my brand loyalty rearing its ugly head. At the end of the day, this is a foundation that left me more disappointed than almost any other base product I've tried.

RATING: 2 out of 5

The Etherealist is available at Sephora.

REVIEW: Kevyn Aucoin Flesh Tone Lip Pencils

Kevyn Aucoin was one of many famous makeup artists who loved the "heavy neutrals" supermodel look of the 90s. While he passed away in 2002, both his legacy and the impact of the 90s live on in the Flesh Tone Lip Pencil. There are currently 7 shades in this pencil, ranging from beige to bright red, but I own the two originals, the shades that have existed for a decade and harken back to Aucoin's roots: Minimal and Medium.

Here I've swatched both shades side-by-side. Also, check out the shape of my swatches, get it?! Ha ha ha ha this is why I don't have friends.

Anyway!

Minimal is a mid-tone mauve, while Medium is a soft brown. I'd say both are relatively neutral, though they lean more cool than warm. I don't generally believe in saying color cosmetics "suit all skin types," since that logic is usually centered around how well things look on light to medium skin, but these pencils come pretty close: Minimal would likely suit anyone very fair to medium-dark, though the darkest skintones may find it too ashy/white, while Medium is a bit too brown for the fairest skin, but will likely look wonderful on light to very dark skintones. Also, I wear Medium anyway because I'm stubborn, so make of that what you will.

These are traditional wooden pencils with a slightly hard formula, meaning they aren't too smeary or greasy-feeling. That being said, they're soft enough to give you full, even pigment without scratching or tugging on your lips. The harder formula means they'll need sharpened less as well, since it takes a while to wear down the point; I always recommend refrigerating your pencils for 15 minutes before sharpening, but it's not entirely necessary with a formula like this.

Both shades are optimal for lining the lips to make them look fuller and more three-dimensional. In the lip swatch on the left, I've lined my lips with Minimal, then filled them in with MAC Faux lipstick. This has become a favorite lip look of mine, neutral and plump and pretty without looking too harsh on my skintone. And you can absolutely fill your entire lips in with these pencils, maybe topping with balm or gloss, and wear them on their own.

The one part where it gets a bit fuzzy is when you fill in your entire lips with a pencil, then apply a less-than-opaque formula on top; for instance, the lip swatch on the left shows Medium all over the lips with some Flower Beauty Sweet Peach lip butter over it, and the lip butter has done little more than soften the color and add some shine. These are so pigmented that they can and will alter most lip shades you apply on top.

These are absolutely rave-worthy pencils, but I will mention that my NYX lip liners perform similarly for a mere fraction of the cost (and they come in more colors). Still, these two shades are stand-outs that I haven't found exact dupes for, and at $25 for 0.04oz of product, they match other high-end pencils for cost-per-ounce and out-perform almost every other pencil I've tried. In short, Kevyn Aucoin's Flesh Tone Lip Pencils could definitely become standards in most collections.

RATING: 5 out of 5

Pssst--if you're interested in trying these, stay tuned for a giveaway. ;)

Obsessed: Kevyn Aucoin Creamy Moist Glows

If you've been reading my blog for even a month, then you probably know that I'm obsessed with the Kevyn Aucoin Creamy Moist Glow blushes. Any time people want a cream blush, particularly a cream blush that works well for dry skin, I give these a shout out.

First thing's first: Kevyn Aucoin has changed their packaging multiple times in less than 3 years. Hence, I have two Creamy Moist Glows in round pots with snap closures and two Creamy Moist Glows in square pots that open when you press the gold bar at the front. Before that, they were packaged in tiny screwtop jars like the Sensual Skin Enhancer--that was packaging my first jar of Pravella came in.

Out of all of these, the round compacts are the best: the mirror is sizeable, the closure is tight, and I never had to worry about it opening in my bag. The sad thing about the current square packaging is that, if something presses up against the compact just right, it'll open right up. It's rare, but it does happen, and it's a bit annoying.

On the bright side, the amount of product you get has increased: the round compacts contain 3.65 grams of product, while the current square compacts contain 4.50 grams of product. 

The formula of these cream blushes strikes a great balance between "emollient" and "lightweight." The product is smooth and creamy, but not thick a la the NYX cream blushes--you have to rub your finger across the product for a few seconds to warm it up, or really tap your brush in the pan, to pick up color. Fingers work best because they almost create a liquid texture, but they're fantastically easy to blend overall.

The finish is very natural and fresh. There's a hint of dewiness, as the product name suggests, but they never look wet. None of these contain shimmer, which is an absolute plus for me.

I currently own four shades. Going clockwise from the top left in the above image: Liquifuchsia, Tansoleil, Isadore, and Pravella. Liquifuchsia is a bright pink with definite purple undertones, and my newest acquisition. Tansoleil is the only peach blush I've ever truly loved, and I think the sizeable dip in the pan shows that. My softer pinks are Isadore, which has yellow undertones, and Pravella, a more pastel, neutral shade that's fantastic for pale skin tones.

Daylight on top, flash on the bottom.

These are my favorite cream blushes, end of story. They're pigmented, easy to blend, come in a great range of colors, are elegantly packaged, and last for hours on end. What's not to love?

RATING: 5 out of 5

And don't forget: there's only a week left in my current giveaway!

FOUL TEMPTRESS! Duping (most of) the Stila Convertible Color palette

Truth time: Stila is not a brand I am particularly drawn to. I think most of their products would sell better if they were priced lower and sold in the drugstore as "almost mid-end" stuff, like Hard Candy or Flower Beauty. However, there is one product Stila makes that I am madly in love with: the Convertible Colors, their cream lip-and-cheek product that is eh for lips, great for dry cheeks like mine. Through some mystical magic, I've resisted the urge to buy a ton of those things.

Now they've come out with a limited edition palette of Convertible Colors for their spring collection. My magic is fading. Those suckers are tempting. Imagine: having every color I could want for trips to visit my boyfriend, beach vacations, and rushed work days! With 12 shades for $49, I'm having a hard time not buying the thing.

So I decided to be proactive and steal a page from the bloggers who attempt to dupe eyeshadow palettes: I'm trying to find alternatives to this palette in my current stash. I use cream blushes exclusively these days, and I'm only interested in duping 8 out of the 12 colors (the top left corner has lots of brown tones, which I could give or take on my pale skin). Here are my results!

I lined up my stash and, based on how the product looks in the pot/tube and how it wears on my skin, I made my choices. With two notable exceptions, I think my line-ups are close enough to count. And the two exceptions? Well, I think I kind of prefer them to the shades in the Stila palette.

Let's take a closer look at what I came up with, starting with the peaches and corals on the left.

I swapped Stilla Gladiola for MAC Neon Orange lipstick. Yes, this is a lipstick, but the formula is quite creamy, so I can use it as a blush. Neon Orange is a faux dupe because it has distinct red tones, whereas Gladiola is a true orange. Still, it functions fine on my cheeks. My only quibble: Neon Orange is so dense that I have to mix it with some moisturizer or foundation if I want to wear it as a blush and not look like a clown.

I swapped Stila Peachblossom for Kevyn Aucoin Creamy Moist Glow in Tansoleil and Stila Gerbera for Becca Beach Tint in Grapefruit. The swatches make it look like I should've alternated Tansoleil and Grapefruit; on my cheeks, however, Tansoleil pulls slightly darker and more orange, and Grapefruit has the softer, peachier tones. Beach Tints and CMGs are two of my all-time favorite formulas, so I'm glad to see they work as dupes!

The most accurate swap for this portion of the palette is probably Stila Petunia for Kiss Me Touch Me Lip&Cheek in Mango. An afforable Korean cream, Mango is incredibly smooth and super-pigmented. It's a pink coral that borders on neon.

On to the reds and pinks! I swapped Stila Tulip for the Lipstick Queen Rose & Shine pot. The Lipstick Queen product looks more red than the Stila in these photos, but it looks like a true berry shade on my cheeks. Beauteous.

The most obvious faux dupe in this whole set-up is Chanel Fantastic, meant to replace Stila Rose. The Chanel appears lighter and pinker in these photos than it looks on my cheeks; when I actually put it on my face, it has more of a plummy shade to it. Still, it's a far cry from the deep, purpled burgundy of Stila Rose. As much as I wish I could truly dupe that shade, I really do think this Chanel blush would be the more flattering option on my skintone. Furthermore, swatches of Stila Rose are varied: sometimes it looks burgundy, sometimes it looks dark pink. Hmmmm.

Two more very accurate dupes are Stila Hibiscus for Canmake CL01 and Stila Fuchsia for Kevyn Aucoin Isadore. I've owned Fuchsia in the past, and I replaced it with Isadore because I prefer the Kevyn Aucoin formula. I haven't owned Hibiscus, but I've had a similar red shade from Stila: Poppy. I prefer the Canmake because of its jelly texture. As the swatch suggests, this product is hard to overdo because it maintains that gooey, delightful jelly sheen on the skin.

Those are my dupes and faux dupes! Have you found anything to replace the Stila palette? Or have you tried the actual Convertible Color palette? Comment with your thoughts!

Recent Acquisitions, Pale Foundation Swatches, and More

I took this picture and immediately scolded myself. "How, how, HOW did this happen?!" I screeched internally, wondering what possessed me to spend all of my non-existent money on this pile of stuff. Then I remember that I swapped for half of this, was gifted another chunk of it (thank you, seriously!), and got the rest on sale. Oh, and there's a ton of samples, too. That always bulks up a haul.

First, the basics: I repurchased the Paula's Choice Sheer Matte Tint in Level 1, because it's a staple. Although it's darker than my neck, it's sheer enough that I can get away with it, and it's perfect for work or I'm-in-a-rush days. The NARS Sheer Glow was an incredibly sweet gift, as are the samples in the middle and the Chanel cream blush in Fantastic. :) Bobbi Brown Skin foundation was one of my Friends & Family sale purchases; I'm testing it out right now, and I'm not quite sure how I feel about it just yet. Will review it shortly.

My other F&F purchases were Shiseido cottons (a staple) and the Hourglass Opaque Rogue Liquid Lipstick in Ballet. This looks like a soft, mid-tone pink in most of the photos I see...maybe I got a dud, but this shade is definitely a berry-fuchsia on me, much darker than I expected. It's not BAD, but I'm not sure it flatters me. I'll probably send it back for one of the other shades. The Urban Decay Perversion mascara was a Sephora 100 point perk. I also bought the It Cosmetics CC Cream in Fair and Hourglass ORLL in Edition from Reddit/blogsales.

This is me wearing Bobbi Brown Skin and Hourglass Ballet. There's no denying that Skin photographs beautifully, but macro shots in my review will show that I haven't managed to wrangle it yet. I'm going to give it a third try, and if I'm not satisfied, it'll also be going back. :/ On the bright side, I received my VIB cards in the mail, so I can still get 20% off of my exchange products.

And I think you can see that Ballet looks very, very berry on me. So sad. :( I was hoping for something softer/milkier and lighter.

Also on my face: Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx01 for spot concealing, Anastasia Dipbrow in Taupe (reviewing soon, really, I am just so behind), L'oreal Miss Manga mascara, Cargo Catalina blush, MUFE Uplight #11, Wet n' Wild liquid eyeliner, and Milani Liquid Eyes pencil. I didn't wear any powder or primer because I wanted to test Bobbi Brown Skin on it's lonesome; the next time I wear it, I'm adding my sunscreens, which double as primers.

Here are some swatches of my newest foundation acquisitions. Be prepared to see this photo multiple times, because I hate reswatching a base product unless it's necessary. *lazy*

Natural light on top, flash on bottom. From left to right: Bobbi Brown Skin liquid foundation in 00 Alabaster, NARS Sheer Glow liquid foundation in Light 1 Siberia, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx02, It Cosmetics Your Skin But Better CC Cream in Fair.

The first three are in the N10 range, while the It CC Cream looks more like an N15 product to me--we'll see how it looks when I apply it. NARS Siberia has strong cool yellow undertones, which bodes well for me. BB Alabaster and KA Sx02 are slightly pink.

As a final note, I've complete 25 tops! Here are all of the lipsticks I decided to purge:

1. MAC Neon Orange
2. MAC Sounds Like Noise [LE]
3. NARS Cruella
4. NARS Roman Holiday
5. Lipstick Queen Saint Berry
6. Bite Madeira
7. Beauty Cosmetics Flouron
9. Bite Pomegranate
10. Revlon Back Cherry
11. Elizabeth Arden Poppy Cream
12. MAC Impassioned
13. Laura Mercier Mulberry lip stain

Don't forget: I'm giving away a free Kevyn Aucoin lash curler!

REVIEW: Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Fluid Foundation

I make very little money, so I try to plan my beauty budget accordingly. When I found out that the newest Kevyn Aucoin base product, the Sensual Skin Fluid Foundation, was going to be released this fall, I made sure to save my pennies and prepare. $65 for something that promises to be pale enough for me out of the bottle, and it's coming from one of my favorite brands? WORTH IT.

Except...not really.

The Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Fluid Foundation costs $65, which isn't entirely stunning for a high-end foundation. What is surprising is the size of the bottle: you only get 0.68 ounces of foundation, not the standard 1oz. I didn't realize that when I ordered, but I definitely noticed how little I was getting when I opened the box.

image from Style.com

I ordered the lightest shade, SF02, which is similar in depth and undertone to the Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx02. The shade range is a bit disappointing for this particular base: they run from pale to dark, but there are very few shades available, and the undertones appear to be predominantly yellow. A few of the numbers have been passed over (SF10-12 are missing, for example), so perhaps they'll advance the range at a later date.

The product is packaged in a glass bottle. The foundation is dispensed via a dropper attached to the lid; the push button on top allows you to suck up the foundation, then pump out as many drops as you deem necessary. On the one hand, it's great that you can see how much product you're using, and the dropper is very intuitive and easy to control. (Opaque, crappy packaging was one of my major gripes with another KA foundation, Liquid Airbrush.) On the other hand, it's glass and I'm clumsy. While the bottle seems sturdy, I would personally be terrified of dropping and smashing it.

The actual foundation is incredibly thin and runny--you can see it in action in my first impressions video--and has a very sweet, kind of disgusting smell reminiscent of cheap caramel. It feels light to the touch and has a lot of slip; not surprising, given how silicone heavy the formulation is.

15 minutes after application. Flash on the left, natural light on the right.

I applied the foundation with a damp Beauty Blender, as recommended by several bloggers and Makeup Alley users. I immediately noticed several things:

• This product feels utterly weightless. It's in no way, shape, or form a heavy product, even if you layer it.
• It's very easy to blend, and a little goes a long while. I used, in total, 10 drops: 7 drops to put a thin layer on my face, then 3 more drops to add a second layer to the parts of my face that need more coverage.
• The coverage is sheer, buildable to medium, and the finish is satin or matte depending on your skin type. I still needed concealer on my spots and scars.
• This puppy REALLY clings  to any texture or dry patches.  

Macro shot of my chin shortly after application.

 That last part? That's what killed it for me. I have pretty good skin with hardly any texture, but the Sensual Skin Fluid managed to find rough patches I didn't even know it existed. I'm serious: the only other foundation I can remember doing this was Givenchy Photo'Perfexion, and it was a much heavier formula. (Chantecaille Future Skin caught on my forehead's clogged pores a bit, but softened up after a while, and worked well on my normal and oily areas.) Adding a second layer took the coverage up from light to nearly medium, but it also enhanced the overall dry look of this foundation.

After 4 hours of wear (left) and 6 hours of wear (right).

While the foundation did get slightly "glowier" throughout the day, the terrible texture on my skin never disappeared. My chin became slightly shiny after 6 hours, but it still looked dry and flaky at the same time. I also noticed that the foundation melted off of my nose and settled in to my pores, which makes it difficult for me to see this as a product for oily-skinned people. That being said, several Makeup Alley users have mentioned that they have oily skin and love this stuff. Priming and powdering would probably help in that scenario. But if you have any dryness or texture? Don't bother, friends.

 My chin after 6 hours of wear. Just disgusting.

As it stands, I am utterly underwhelmed by the Sensual Skin Fluid. And it's a shame, because Kevyn Aucoin is one of the few brands that makes out-of-the-bottle pale shades. What bumps my rating up from a 2 to a 3 is the ingenuity of the dropper; it'll be hard to waste product with such an easy-to-control design.

PS: 100 bonus points to Beautylish.com for incredible customer service, fast shipping, and an all-around pleasurable experience!

3 out of 5.

The Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Fluid Foundation is available at Beautylish for $65.

VIDEO: First Impression of the Brand New Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Fluid Foundation

FULL REVIEW COMING SOON!

My Kevyn Aucoin Tag: brand: Kevyn Aucoin
KA SSE Posts of Interest: Original 3 Ways to Apply Series, Applying With a Beauty Blender, Under a Sheer Foundation
Ding! Sound Effect: SoundFXForFree

October 2014 Product Pile Up

25 Tops: MAC Candy Yum Yum

There are some products that I just KNOW I'm not going to get rid of, but I feel like I should give them a real test regardless. Enter MAC Candy Yum Yum: a matte lipstick so neon, it makes most others look positively plain.

Oooh, alliteration! *English teacher*

A blue-based, neon pink with great wear time, Candy Yum Yum definitely goes in to my KEEP pile. No, I don't get to wear it often (it's not exactly work appropriate), but it's a showstopper when I go out for the night. You can also blot this on for a stain that's absolutely wearable, so keep that in mind!

Surprisingly, just about everything else in this pile is a KEEP: my Makeup Forever Uplight in #11 (I wish they made a white/pearl shade with this dewy finish!), my Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer, and the Kiss Me Touch Me Lip2Cheek in 02 Peach (actually a pink color, but whatevs). This particular shade of KA SSE is Sx02, which is darker and more pink than Sx01. I think Sx01 is a better match for me, so I'll probably stick with that in the future when I repurchase, but I can get away with Sx02, right?

PS: I noticed that my Lipstick Queen Bright Rose Sinner lipstick wasn't on the list, and yeah, it has to stay. It was a gift from my mommy! :)

This puts me at about the halfway point as far as my lipstick collection is concerned..so it's time to be discerning! Man, this is gonna be tough.


KEEP PILE:
1. Hourglass Muse
2. Hourglass Riviera
3. Hourglass Icon (mini-size)
4. Chanel Dragon [D/C]
5. Lancome Pale Lip
6. Bite Beauty Velvet
7. Lipstick Queen Saint Pinky Nude
8. Lipstick Queen Jean Queen
9. MAC Scarlet Ibis [LE]
10. MAC Viva Glam Nicki [LE]
11. Urban Decay Native
12. MAC Candy Yum Yum
13. Lipstick Queen Sinner Bright Rose

PURGE PILE:
1. MAC Neon Orange
2. MAC Sounds Like Noise [LE]
3. NARS Cruella
4. NARS Roman Holiday
5. Lipstick Queen Saint Berry
6. Bite Madeira
7. Beauty Cosmetics Flouron

MAYBE PILE:
1. MAC Impassioned
2. Elizabeth Arden Poppy Cream

NEW STUFF:
1. MAC Relentlessly Red
2. MAC Sushi Kiss

STOLEN:
1. MAC Please Me

My Skin is Mad at Me

I've said it before and I'll say it again: I don't like summer. Every year, beauty magazines erupt with worshipful odes to the sultry season, farmers markets pop up on side streets, and festivals fill our schedules.

But you know what summer does to me? It eats my skin! Seriously. I'm very fair and am incredibly sensitive to heat and humidity, so I burn in two minutes and look like a beet in half that time. The air conditioning dries out my face. Walking from the bus stop to campus leaves me covered in a heat rash. I sweat like a stuck pig. Bugs, poisonous plants, and wayward children seem boundless. Yes, summer has some perks, like garden-fresh veggies and sleeveless shirts. But for the most part, I see summer as a stepping stone to fall.

Here's how I clean up my complexion when summer is at its cruelest. Fair warning: I look drunk in these pictures. #sorryboutit

First, I take stock of my skin. I have some small pimples on my chin and forehead, a patch of hives on the lower part of my cheek, and a little bit of everyday unevenness, like the sallow spots at the sides of my mouth. My skin also has a bit of an odd texture at this point--partially from the A/C dehydrating my face--so I need to use something as a primer.

I apply a thin layer of my Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Liquid SPF50 ($39, Sephora) all over my face. Normally I use a dryer sunscreen through my T-zone to prevent oil breakthrough, but because I'm dehydrated, I'm sticking with the Shiseido. Then I conceal my undereyes and my red spots with the Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx01 ($48, Neiman Marcus). (NOTE: the Shiseido SPF50 lotion always has a white cast when freshly applied. I find that said white cast after a little while.)

Now it's time for some overall coverage! I like to use a thin layer of MAC Face & Body foundation ($27, MAC)--click here for my F&B application tips. Right now I'm using about 2 parts N1 to 1 part White; in the winter, I switch that ratio around. I like to let F&B sit on my face for a few seconds so it "melts in" to my skin and becomes less dewy.

For finishing touches, I dab on a small amount of highlighter, like MAC Strobe Cream ($10, MAC). To get a little more coverage and smooth everything out, I use a light dusting of Dolce & Gabbana Perfect Finish Powder Foundation in #50 Ivory ($60, Sephora) through my t-zone.

And there you have it: how I save my skin from summer!


For the record, there are plenty of great drugstore products you could use to replace some of the more expensive items in this blogpost. The only reason why my base products are all mid/high-end is because they're the only brands that make stuff in my shade and/or produce a white corrector. If your shade is easier to find in the drugstore, definitely scope out your options!

Applying the Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer with a Beauty Blender

 

 The "Three Ways I Use KA SSE" series is, without a doubt, the most popular set of posts on this blog. If I'm seeing a spike in blog traffic, it's usually because somebody pinned the first tutorial to Pinterest (hey, thanks!) or mentioned it on a forum (thanks again!). 

Of course, things change as time goes on, and the Kevyn Aucoin product line is no different. The KA primer mentioned in the full coverage post is no longer in production; it's been replaced by two different "developers," one for oily skin and one for dry skin. I've neither tried nor owned these products, and to be honest, I don't know if I ever will. So in order to keep this blog up-to-date and useful, I've decided to post another application method: getting sheer-to-medium coverage with a Beauty Blender.

The Beauty Blender is not my favorite tool, but it's a popular one, and it works well for this "tutorial."

You can use just the Beauty Blender and KA SSE to great effect, but because I have a dryer skin type, I like the finished product to glow a bit, and I prefer that it spread well during application. Hence, I use a small dab of MAC Strobe Cream--a lightweight, luminous moisturizer--alongside my base product. You may certainly skip this step, or replace Strobe Cream with the primer/moisturizer of your choice.

I start by saturating my Beauty Blender with water, squeezing all of the excess out with a towel. The sponge should be soft and very slightly damp, not soggy. Then I put a dab of KA SSE on the back of my hand--no more than half a pea in size--followed by a pea-sized dab of Strobe Cream. You may notice that I kind of "smear" the KA SSE across my hand. That makes it easier to evenly distribute product on the sponge. (You may also notice an eyelash in the KA SSE...sorry.)

I dab the bottom (the round part) of my BB in to the Strobe Cream, then dab it in to the KA SSE. I go straight to my face, using a dabbing motion to apply and blend out the product. These images demonstrate the process pretty well: on the left, I've just dabbed some of the mixture on to my cheek (see the glowy "halo" at the top of the BB?), and on the right, I've blended the product across my cheek. I like to work in sections because it gives me plenty of time to spread out the product, and it lets me see if I'm getting the effect and coverage I want.

When I'm done applying a layer of this product, I look over my face and see where I need more coverage. Then I dip the pointed tip of the Beauty Blender in to a bit more KA SSE (no Strobe Cream this time) and dab it over those spots.

Here's the before and after, complete with me making stupid faces. As you can (hopefully) see, the MAC Strobe Cream/KA SSE mixture gives me glowy, light coverage on the majority of my face. Where I needed a bit more coverage (my nose, my chin, a few spots, and my undereyes), I just dabbed on more KA SSE. The effect is quite natural. I like to add a dusting of powder (visible in the first image in this post), but outside of summer, it's not entirely necessary on my dry skin.

Oh, and in case it's not clear: I use the lightest shade, Sx01, when I apply product to my entire face. It's a perfect match for my neck, which is roughly N5 in MAC terms.

I hope this post helped! The Sensual Skin Enhancer is one of my all-time favorite products, so I always encourage readers to experiment with their application methods. :)

5 Underrated Must-Try Products

MAC Face & Body foundation, Shu Uemura Hard Formula brow pencil, Skindinavia, CoverGirl Clump Crusher...these are all products I love and blog about regularly. But I'm not the only one: those are true cult favorites, the kind of stuff most beauty bloggers have at least tried, if not recommended. Raving on about them would be pretty pointless, not because they aren't worth it, but because you've probably already heard of them.

I'd like to take a different route today. Here are 5 products I absolutely adore and recommend on a weekly basis, but you never see them mentioned on YouTube or the blogosphere.

Paula's Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint -- The best tinted moisturizer I've ever tried.  It definitely is sheer and matte, but that doesn't mean it's non-existent or chalky. This will even out your skintone and provide some coverage, and while it certainly isn't a dewy product, it also isn't flat or drying. It lasts decently on my oily nose and looks like bare, healthy skin on the rest of my face. I also love that it has SPF 30, which is more than the standard SPF15 in most tinted moisturizers. If I'm in a hurry, I'll slap this on as my sunscreen, foundation, and concealer.

Elizabeth Arden Crystal Clear Gloss -- I've been very vocal about my dislike of gloss, with its goopy texture and poor staying power, so putting a gloss on a Top 5 list might seem suspect. But I can't deny it: this stuff is the best. It's completely clear, so I can use it over any lipstick or lip pencil, and it's thick enough to stay on my lips without feathering, but not so sticky that it's uncomfortable. A matte lip will almost always be the longest-lasting lip, but I will say that this stuff doesn't eat through my lip color the way most thinner, more slippery glosses do. And it looks nice on bare lips and eyelids, too!

Kevyn Aucoin Creamy Moist Glows -- These pigmented cream blushes don't come in a wide range of colors, but the colors they DO come in are all gorgeous. I currently own Isadore (pictured) and Tansoleil, and they're both staples in my collection. The texture is slightly tacky under your fingers, but the product is weightless on my face and blends out like a dream. One of the cool things about these is that they show up true-to-life on camera. If you're like me and you use HD on the regular, you know that's a big deal, since you usually have to pile blush on and look like a clown in real life to get it to show on film.

Elizabeth Arden Lip Fix Cream -- Sometimes described as a "balm" or "moisturizing," this product is truly neither. It's not DRYING, but it's not going to make your lips plump and luscious, either. What it will do is smooth over the surface of your lips, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and prevent feathering when you apply your lipstick. And if you wear as many bold lip colors as I do? It's an absolutely invaluable tool.

E.L.F Makeup Remover Pen -- A $3 miracle worker. I'm a complete slob when it comes to applying my mascara, and I still make the occasional mistake when I wing out my eyeliner. This guy cleans up even the most waterproof makeup in a second, and it's perfect for removing the littlest boo-boo without messing up the rest of your face. The tip is 2-sided, so if one end gets filthy (and the one pictured here is, oops), you can just flip it around. Store it straight up with the tip pointed down for the best results.

And here's a picture of me wearing all five products. (Purposely taken straight on instead of at my usual 3/4 profile, because the Blogger Head Tilt was mentioned on Makeup Alley recently and I decided to break the habit at least once. Shots like this actually make it clear why I tilt my head, but whatever, here it is, nobody's perfect, move along, nothing to see here.)

Faking It: Getting a Glow in Winter

There was a time when I wore nothing but full coverage products in the most matte, flat formulations available. When I say matte, I mean mattttttte: not a hint of shine and borderline chalky.

Now that I'm a little older and wiser, I've come to realize that a glow is just much more flattering on my skin. Admittedly, my combination-dry skin generally lacks shine, so it could be a case of wanting what you don't have--the grass is always greener and whatnot. But I honestly do think that a little dewiness makes most people look more youthful and fresh, especially in the cold winter months. And as I prepare to visit frigid North Dakota, where the temperatures regularly drop in to the negatives, for almost a month, I'm whipping out every tool in my arsenal to keep that glow.

Nothing will beat out the importance of good skincare. Your skin is constantly changing due to the weather, hormones, etc., so you'll want to keep up with its needs on a day-to-day basis to give yourself the best possible canvas. But if you need that extra push? Well, a little makeup never hurts.

1. Don't sparkle, shine! It's been my experience that glittery highlighters look especially heavy on dry, winter-beaten skin, probably because the cold weather alters skin texture for the worst, making every little speck stick out. That's why I stick to glowy highlighters with super-fine shimmer particles, things that are more "sheeny" than "sparkly." The most natural of these is MAC Strobe Cream ($10, MACCosmetics.com), which is technically a moisturizer. I prefer to dab it over my makeup like a normal highlighter, but some people actually mix it with their foundation or apply it all over their face for extra moisture and glow. If you want a truly dewy look, consider the Makeup Forever Uplights ($29, Sephora.com) in shades #11 or #12. It's a light gel formulation that looks slightly wet, not at all glittery, on the skin. My all-time favorite highlighter is the Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector ($41, Sephora.com), which contains the most subtle, layerable shimmer particles I've ever seen.

2. Moisturizers can double as makeup. I've already mentioned MAC Strobe Cream, but don't forget about old classics like Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream ($19.50, ElizabethArden.com). Yes, I can use it to moisturize my lips and lashes, but it also gives my face a dewy look. It's great as a highlighter as well--see my previous article for tips! I love this product so much, I keep 3 tubes: one in my makeup collection, one in the bathroom, and one in my purse.

3. Switch to lighter formulations for your base products. I'm not one for full coverage on most days, regardless of the weather, but I especially avoid it during the winter. Why?  Because most full-coverage foundations and concealers are matte and drying, so unless you have oily skin, they're going to cake up and look decidedly fake on dry, dehydrated skin. I stick to super-sheer tinted moisturizers, like the Tarte Tinted BB Treatment ($34, Sephora.com) or light, layerable, dewy foundations, like the infamous MAC Face & Body ($27, MACCosmetics.com). Then I spot concealer where needed. Even people with discoloration or acne are often better off using a light foundation and spot concealing as needed to prevent that dry, heavy look. For my undereyes, I've been using NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer ($28, Sephora.com) to soften up my dark circles and keep that delicate patch of skin from shriveling up.

4. Need your full coverage? Prepare to shellac it! Truth time: I'm wearing a full-coverage foundation (Dolce & Gabbana's cream formulation) in that top image. And sure enough, as soon as I brushed it on to my skin, that normally luxurious product looked fake and slightly patchy on my dry, dry face. The fix? Generous spritzings of Skindinavia Setting Spray ($29, Skindinavia.com). This is the bridal version, which is slightly shinier, but you can use just about any formulation and get the same sort of effect. It not only holds your makeup in place, but also softens it up and adds some glow without feeling heavy or sticky.

5. Learn to love cream blushes. My cheeks are the Sahara, so I wear cream blushes almost exclusively year-round. But they're especially necessary in the winter, when my cheeks start to get flaky and take on a rougher texture. The emollient, slightly tacky feel of Kevyn Aucoin Creamy Moist Glow blushes ($26, Nordstrom.com) means that they look dewy and smooth on my cheeks, but also last throughout the day. If you have a more oily skin type, or just prefer a less moisture-ful blush, try Yves Saint Laurent Creme de Blush ($38, Sephora.com), a more powder-like formulation that is still blendable and comfortable on dry skin.

Kevyn Aucoin Swatches and Comparisons

Having officially tried two thirds of the Kevyn Aucoin foundation range (the only things I haven't tried are the powder and cream-to-powder products), I think it's about time to post some fresh swatches and opinions. Unfortunately, only two of these foundations are wearable for me, and even one of those "wearable" products must be blended down my neck to hide the fact that it's not a perfect shade match. Still, I was genuinely impressed with most of these products; I wouldn't rate any of them below a three. For more in-depth reviews and opinions on some of these products, please check out my Kevyn Aucoin and Reviews tags.

All of these swatches represent the lightest shade available. MAC shade estimates are just that: estimates. My skin is neutral N5-10.

Radiant Reflection Stick foundation in 01 Shalom -- $45 for 0.34oz. Strong yellow/golden undertones, roughly NC15. Light to medium buildable coverage, satin/glowy finish. Has a strong and rather unpleasant scent that's a mixture of watermelon and musk, but the smell is not detectable on the skin. Feels cool, smooth, and incredibly creamy upon application. Super easy to blend. Recommended for oily, normal, or slightly dry skin, though those with oily skin will want to powder. Small shade range.

Liquid Airbrush foundation in Lq02 -- $45 for 0.68oz. Peachy-pink undertones, roughly NW10-15. Medium to full coverage, matte finish. Has a flowery scent that is still somewhat detectable shortly after applying the foundation--takes a few minutes to fade. Feels very rich, creamy, and luxurious, but dries quickly; best applied and blended in in sections. Half a pump is more than enough of this product. Recommended for normal skin. Moderate shade range--varying depths, but undertones tend to be very pink or yellow.

Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx02 and Sx01 -- $45 for 0.63 oz (and it'd be astonishing if you used even half of that over the course of two years). Sx02 has pink undertones and is about MAC NW10-15; Sx01 has cool yellow undertones and is about MAC N5-10. Variable full coverage; can be sheered out with moisturizer/damp sponges or applied full force for complete coverage. Satin/matte finish. Slight powdery scent that is not detectable on the skin. Feels very thick and rich to the touch; can be difficult to blend and needs to be really worked in to the skin. My HG concealer: I use Sx01 on blemishes, Sx02 on my undereyes. Recommended for normal to dry skin; those with very dry or very oily skin will need to use powder, moisturizer, and/or primer as is necessary. Expansive shade range.

Sensual Skin Tinted Balm in Sb01 -- $48 for 1oz. Pink undertones, roughly MAC NW15. Light coverage, glowy finish. No strong scent. Surprisingly smooth, rich-feeling formula with a lot of slip. Recommended for oily, normal, and slightly dry skin; workable on very dry skin with some patience and a bit of moisturizer. Incredibly comfortable, natural, and beautifying. Small shade range, but the sheer-ness means that each shade should work for a decent number of people (ie, Sb01 could probably work for NW10 thru NW20).

Review: Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Tinted Balm

Does this really need an introduction? We all know I'm willing to try just about anything from the Kevyn Aucoin brand, partly because Kevyn was my all-time favorite makeup artist (RIP), but also because it's one of the few brands that seems to create super-light foundations in formulations I can work with. So when I saw that they were re-promoting this tinted moisturizer-type product, and when I heard from the...oh, two existing blog reviews that it ran quite light, I was sold.

I technically swapped for this product: the other gal bought it from a website during a big sale and sent it to me in exchange for a few of my purged items. But if you should buy it full price, the Sensual Skin Tinted Balm will cost you $48 for 1 oz. I got Sb01, the lightest shade. The listing on Nordstrom says that this product will "treat" the skin and improve all sorts of cell functions with a variety of random buzzwordy stuff, blah blah blah, I don't believe any of that. I was more interested in the idea that it "conceals imperfections with lightweight pigments versus dense compounds," "protects against UVA and UVB rays with a theoretic SPF20" (note that it's theoretic, and that you won't see "SPF20" anywhere on the box or tube), and is oil and paraben free.

Straight off the bat: LOVE the packaging for this product. It has a pull-off cap that doesn't yoink off easily, so it's purse-safe, and the top of the bottle is clear and kind of...squishy. You squeeze that part to dispense the foundation from a very tiny, thin nozzle. You'll see just how much product you have left and you'll never dispense too much, which is a vast improvement over other Kevyn Aucoin foundation packaging.

For a foundation that's supposed to be lightweight, this product is surprisingly thick and creamy, almost like a concealer. When I blended it in to my face, I got the impression that I was rubbing on a rich sunscreen or moisturizer. I was expecting something much more silicone-y feeling, given the high amount of dimethicone in the formulation (scroll down for the ingredients list). There wasn't any moisturization (or if there should be, my skin is too dry for it to really make a difference), but it definitely felt like the product had some density and weight to it. It blended out easily, though, and was weightless after it had been applied.

Now, I figured that this product would be too dark for me when I tested it out the back of my hand and it turned dark orange. Once applied to my face, it's definitely too dark, but it's not as shockingly orange as it was on my hand. I'd guesstimate that Sb01 is about NW15 in MAC terms, since my neck and chest (which I match to) are about N5 and this was two shades too dark.

Although this is supposedly a "tinted balm," it doesn't moisturize much and it provides a decent bit of coverage, so I'm more apt to call it a "sheer foundation." As you can see in these pictures, it evened out my discoloration and lightened up (but did not completely conceal) my taking-forever-to-fade chin blemish. It didn't make much of a dent on my undereye circles, but few products do, so that's no big deal to me. The finish is a very natural matte/satin finish; it makes my skin look polished, but not made-up.

The Sensual Skin Tinted Balm applied beautifully to my oily nose, normal forehead, and somewhat dry cheeks, but in the mouth/chin area--where I tend to get super-dry--it was a bit of a struggle. I was stunned to see that my mouth and chin were covered in teeny tiny flakes that I hadn't noticed or felt prior to applying the foundation. I don't know WHY this foundation brought those flakes to the surface, because it didn't feel particularly drying and it sat comfortably on my skin otherwise, but I was very disappointed to see that yet another Kevyn Aucoin foundation wouldn't work wonders on my combination-dry face. I would point fingers at the alcohol listed in the ingredients if the flakes didn't pop up so immediately and if the product was harsher on my face after hours of wear, but for now, it's a mystery.

In all fairness, the product softened up on my skin after about 15 minutes, which is what most foundations do. I sort of...um...brushed the flakes away (I know, I know, it's gross), and then it looked just fine all over my face. But again, it's a bit frustrating that it made my skin look even dryer than it was, and I know that it wouldn't work on me in the winter when my face turns to the Sahara.

On my normal, oily, and slightly dry areas, though, this foundation was a thing of pure beauty. I know for a fact that if it wasn't so hilariously dark on my uber-pale skin, I'd make it my go-to spring/summer foundation because of how weightless and natural it looks.

Here's how my face looked after 2 hours of walking, swinging, and running around on a warm day. I was absolutely stunned to see that such a creamy-textured product had not only stayed put on my dry and normal areas, but had only gotten a smidge shiny on my mega-oily nose. It looked beautiful even in bright, bright daylight, and again, if it hadn't been too dark for me, it would've looked like my own skin, only better. (Bear in mind that the extra coverage on my chin, undereyes, and around my nose is from my concealer--the Tinted Balm didn't magically become higher coverage!)

So would I recommend this product? If you have normal to slightly oily/dry skin and you're looking for something lightweight and natural, then yes, definitely. It gave me beautiful, sheer coverage and played well with a variety of brushes, powders, and cream products, and it lasted through extreme temperatures better than I ever would have expected. The shade range is incredibly limited, though, and the texture is a tad wonky, especially on dryer skin, but if can find a color that'll work for you, I say give it a go! I'm going to cling to my tube for a bit longer in the hopes that I'll "tan" up a bit and be able to rock it throughout the summer.

Rating: 4 out of 5

From left to right: Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Tinted Balm in Sb01, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx02, Burberry Sheer Luminous foundation in Trench 01, Tarte Tinted BB Treatment in Fair, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx01