Thursday, March 9, 2017
Anti-Haul (aka, "What I'm Not Going To Buy"), Fifth Edition
Normally, I do an anti-haul post when I've found a few items that have tested my resolve, the stuff I almost purchased despite my better judgment and tiny budget. But this one is a bit different. The truth of the matter is that there are only a couple of things I want right now, and for a variety of reasons, I'm not struggling to hold off. Instead, I wanted to focus on some new releases that are getting plenty of hype, and I want to try and talk 90% of people out of dropping a paycheck on these luxuries. Because, you know, you probably don't need them.
As always, these posts are not meant to make you feel bad for liking a product or spending your money; I'm just trying to think carefully about my own consumerism and maybe encourage you to think carefully about yours. Once again, mad props to Kimberly Clark for popularizing and promoting the Anti-Haul movement!
1. Anastasia Beverly Hills Lip Palette, $48 -- Let me be clear: I do not think this product is silly, overpriced, or poorly conceived. I actually think it looks like a fantastic assortment of lip colors that will serve an artist well. But that's who this is going to serve: an artist, somebody who works primarily on runways or photoshoots and prefers a range of colors over portability. I'm a little baffled by the number of everyday people who want to purchase this palette. Yes, it's cool that you can mix a lot of different colors, but...are you going to mix your perfect shade on the daily? Or, if you find your perfect mix, would you be comfortable with storing it in a separate container and applying it with a lip brush every day? For that matter, would you be comfortable carrying a lip brush around for touch ups? (I know I bring up lip brushes a lot, but I really do think it's necessary--I've only ever known one person who willingly carried a lip brush around.) Also, you'll need a basic understanding of color theory to make the exact shade you want every time. Otherwise, you could end up with fifty shades of brown.
2. Glossier Priming Moisturizer Rich, $35 -- I was actually thrilled when I heard that Glossier was launching a heavier cream. Then it dropped, and the ingredients list sent me running. To be fair, I have a more reactive skin type, but even if I disregard that, this isn't exactly a sterling list. Glycerin, shea butter, squalane, caprylic triglyceride, and fatty alcohols are all lovely for dry skin that doesn't clog or break out easily, but they're also very common and cheap ingredients. Ceramides are at the bottom half of the list, below a number of silicones that will add slip and potentially make the cream seem more emollient than it really is. There are also a number of potential irritants in here; for instance, I know from experience that lavender oil both stinks and hates my skin. This could be a perfectly fine hydrating primer for tough skin in the normal range, but there are other products with similar hydrating ingredients sans irritants, like La Roche Posay Toleriane Riche, or that include less run-of-the-mill emollients on top of that, like Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream.
3. Drunk Elephant T.L.C Sukari Baby Facial, $80 -- Speaking of Drunk Elephant, here's another super-expensive product they've released, but for once, I can't get behind it. It's not that this is poorly formulated, though I do question if it's really worth that $80, especially when you compare it to Deciem's similar product in the Ordinary range that clocks in at $7.20. It's more that I question just how many people need a peel this strong that often. I understand that my skin can be touchy, and my every-other-week 10% AHA and every-other-night 2% BHA is negligible to some skincare aficionados. But 25% AHA once a week? That's a fucking ton of glycolic acid. (ETA: It's been pointed out to me that this product contains a mixture of acids, not just glycolic; I apologize for the mistake. Still, 25% AHA is potent!) The fact that they include a sample of their marula oil and recommend that you use it immediately after removing the peel should tell you just how much this product will sandblast your face. And while they do point out that you should only use it once a week (which is still a lot), there's no recommendation that people patch test. Guys, I have only known one person who used glycolic peels this strong regularly, and even then, she only did it once or twice a month to deal with acne scarring and hyper-pigmentation. I know it sounds sexy. I know the hype is real. But there is a good chance that you just don't need this.
4. Tom Ford Sheer Cheek Duo in Paradise Lust, $78 -- Okay, the pun in the name is really bad, that goes without saying. My real issue is that this is a lot of money to spend for very little product. Apparently, the pans aren't 0.15oz each, they're 0.15oz COMBINED. Tom Ford's individual cream blushes are larger and less expensive ($68 for 0.17oz). Even then, Tom Ford apparently sucks at providing a decent shade range. The blush in this duo will likely work for a fair range of skintones, but I get the feeling it'll be far too bright for fair skin, and that type of pinky highlighter is not universally flattering. I like the packaging, sure, and that's about it. For $78, I could get two or three amazing cream blushes or highlighters from another high-end brand, like Makeup Forever or Becca.
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There is exactly once where I've carried a lip brush to work in my bag and then actually used it to reapply a lipstick. It was Urban Decay Vice Lipstick in Rock Steady, and it was a little pan of it I made from the UD lipstick sampler. Lip palettes, even though I made one from the UD lip sampler, are just...impractical.
ReplyDeleteI feel like a lot of brands are starting to tap into that wannabe MUA/guru culture and making people feel like they need these items that are really suited for pros.
Very true. We see far more of what makeup artists do and use now thanks to social media, and I think it skews our perceptions.
DeleteThere are so many palettes and kits coming out that seem utterly impractical for the average consumer! Any highlighter palette that includes shades for light to dark skin just isn't useful unless you're doing makeup on lots of people. And yeah, I'm definitely not going to be bringing a lip brush with me, ever, for any reason.
ReplyDeleteThat Drunk Elephant peel is intense! I have to say that I'm kind of intrigued by The Ordinary's version, because I love their products and I love AHAs, but I don't think I need a THIRTY PERCENT AHA. A 15 or 20 might be nice for occasional use, though.
I do think 20%+ AHAs have their place, but for most people, is 25% AHA + 2% BHA on a weekly basis with an $80 price tag necessary? Not really.
DeleteYour comments about the Drunken Elephant Baby Facial have actually made me want it (or at least the cheaper The Ordinary version) more! But I do love a strong chemical exfoliation and my skin isn't sensitive in the slightest! The Ordinary's version is out of stock at the moment; if it's not re-stocked before Sephora's spring sale, maybe I'll try the Drunk Elephant!
ReplyDeleteHey, more power to you!
DeleteHave you ever tried MUAC (Makeup Artist's Choice?) They're a very reputable/established brand and they make SUPER gentle all the way to SUPER intense peels/daily exfoliants. Their pricing is more similar to something like Paula's Choice (so btw DE and Deciem) but everything they make is top notch and their bottles last forever.
DeleteI DIE for that Milton pun! Speaking of Tom Ford, one of my not-gonna-buys is their new lip duo compacts. I use a lip brush maybe once every two months, so it's weird to me that lip palettes and the like are so trendy now.
ReplyDeleteHonestly, I can't see myself buying most of Tom Ford's products these days. None of the foundations would match me, and I'm told their lipsticks go off in less than a year.
DeleteI read a review explaining the ingredients of DE Babyfacial. It's 25 percent AHA, but not necessarily 25 percent glycolic acid. It also contains lactic, tantric, and citric acids, so the GA level is probably more like 15 percent. Still, I question the price, and whether it's the hot shit bloggers claim it is. I don't think expensive is better -- I just think people will tell themselves it is to justify the prices!
ReplyDeleteThank you for the clarification! I'll add that in.
DeleteI feel like SO MUCH of what companies (skincare and makeup) are pushing in the last few years is ALL convenience, no "meat." I have essentially the exact same thing as the ABH lip palette...it's just a flash palette from a nice midrange theatrical/pro brand. And it's been on the market for several decades, but you just have to get it from CRC or a theater shop.
ReplyDeleteThe greedy capitalist pig in me loves the markup-with-no-value-add because get that money, etc. But as a customer it does get on my nerves. Do *something* artistic or creative or special to make this product a fit for your line, ya know?
You raise an excellent point! Artists have already had palettes like this for ages; it's just been from companies like Kryolan, Ben Nye, etc. So are they suddenly stunned by this offering from Anastasia? Nah.
Delete