Friday, May 17, 2013

Kevyn Aucoin Swatches and Comparisons

Having officially tried two thirds of the Kevyn Aucoin foundation range (the only things I haven't tried are the powder and cream-to-powder products), I think it's about time to post some fresh swatches and opinions. Unfortunately, only two of these foundations are wearable for me, and even one of those "wearable" products must be blended down my neck to hide the fact that it's not a perfect shade match. Still, I was genuinely impressed with most of these products; I wouldn't rate any of them below a three. For more in-depth reviews and opinions on some of these products, please check out my Kevyn Aucoin and Reviews tags.

All of these swatches represent the lightest shade available. MAC shade estimates are just that: estimates. My skin is neutral N5-10.


Radiant Reflection Stick foundation in 01 Shalom -- $45 for 0.34oz. Strong yellow/golden undertones, roughly NC15. Light to medium buildable coverage, satin/glowy finish. Has a strong and rather unpleasant scent that's a mixture of watermelon and musk, but the smell is not detectable on the skin. Feels cool, smooth, and incredibly creamy upon application. Super easy to blend. Recommended for oily, normal, or slightly dry skin, though those with oily skin will want to powder. Small shade range.

Liquid Airbrush foundation in Lq02 -- $45 for 0.68oz. Peachy-pink undertones, roughly NW10-15. Medium to full coverage, matte finish. Has a flowery scent that is still somewhat detectable shortly after applying the foundation--takes a few minutes to fade. Feels very rich, creamy, and luxurious, but dries quickly; best applied and blended in in sections. Half a pump is more than enough of this product. Recommended for normal skin. Moderate shade range--varying depths, but undertones tend to be very pink or yellow.

Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx02 and Sx01 -- $45 for 0.63 oz (and it'd be astonishing if you used even half of that over the course of two years). Sx02 has pink undertones and is about MAC NW10-15; Sx01 has cool yellow undertones and is about MAC N5-10. Variable full coverage; can be sheered out with moisturizer/damp sponges or applied full force for complete coverage. Satin/matte finish. Slight powdery scent that is not detectable on the skin. Feels very thick and rich to the touch; can be difficult to blend and needs to be really worked in to the skin. My HG concealer: I use Sx01 on blemishes, Sx02 on my undereyes. Recommended for normal to dry skin; those with very dry or very oily skin will need to use powder, moisturizer, and/or primer as is necessary. Expansive shade range.

Sensual Skin Tinted Balm in Sb01 -- $48 for 1oz. Pink undertones, roughly MAC NW15. Light coverage, glowy finish. No strong scent. Surprisingly smooth, rich-feeling formula with a lot of slip. Recommended for oily, normal, and slightly dry skin; workable on very dry skin with some patience and a bit of moisturizer. Incredibly comfortable, natural, and beautifying. Small shade range, but the sheer-ness means that each shade should work for a decent number of people (ie, Sb01 could probably work for NW10 thru NW20).

Monday, May 13, 2013

My Skincare


I've sought out more modest ways to say this, but it turns out there aren't any, so I'm just going to tell it like it is: I have relatively nice, hassle-free skin. I think the relative clarity of my skin kind of balances out my crazy, difficult, lion's mane mop of hair, which is a constant source of frustration for me. Obviously, a lot of this is genetic: my mother, like me, was always combination-dry and pretty much acne-free. The women on her side of the family have always had quite clear, ten-years-younger-looking-than-you-actually-are skin. But I'm like my father in that I am ghost white and somewhat sensitive to certain skincare ingredients, like high levels of alcohol and salicylic acid. Figuring out my "skin genetics" and talking to my parents about what worked (and didn't work) for them really helped me find better ways to care for my own skin.


Another important factor in my skin's health is my diet. A few people have told me that diet doesn't affect skin, but I have to disagree with that based on my studies and my own experiences; the first year of graduate school, when I survived on a diet of absolute shit, wreaked havoc on my face. And as soon as I reverted back to my usual diet, the acne, flaky patches, and overall dull appearance cleared right up. I'm not going to act like I eat a "model's diet" of primarily raw foods and no fats or junk, because that's a complete lie, and I certainly don't think it's necessary for the average person. But I DO eat a lot of fresh veggies, non-fat yogurt, lean meat, and whole grains ,because..that's what I like. Seriously. I've always loved chocolate and I eat it almost every day, but my favorite food is a sweet tomato, and I never cared for most starches, fried foods, or processed products, even as as child. White bread tastes like cardboard to me. I don't get what the big deal is about white potatoes (although I loves me a sweet potato or a yam!). And I rarely drink carbonated beverages like Coke because I just...er, don't like them that much. My biggest "weak spot" is fruit--if I wanted something sweet, I'd eat candy, and if I wanted something substantial, I'd eat a vegetable--so I try to sneak it in and get my 3 servings a day.

For reference's sake, some of my favorite snacks include Fage 0% Greek yogurt with fresh fruit or honey and nuts, Triscuit crackers and goat's milk cheese, raw veggies with dill dip, antipasto bar offerings (like stuffed banana papers or sundried tomatoes), homemade whole grain Egg McMuffins, and Luna bars. As far as liquids go, I have a cup of coffee almost every morning, or a non-fat caramel cappuccino, and drink plenty of water throughout the day. Sometimes I'll make a fruit-and-yogurt smoothie or have some Bolthouse Farms juice. In the summer, I drink an iced chai almost every night; in cooler weather, I have hot cocoa instead.


And of course, chocolate. I fucking LOVE chocolate.

So maintaining a diet that works well for my body and keeping my family's skin history in mind are definitely half of the equation. But I've also done my best to find products that really work for my skin type and address my concerns. And while no one product can work for everybody, I have to say that I've used most of these products for years and stand behind them wholeheartedly.

Before I delve in to the products I use, I should probably list the concerns I'm regularly trying to address:

1. My oddball skintype. I call my skin "combination dry" because the majority of it is the freaking Sahara, with no sebum production whatsoever going on. But regardless of the time of year, my  nose and eyelids are always absolute oil slicks. This means I have to find products that will moisturize the majority of my face without turning those two "hot spots" in to an oily mess. My skin type does change slightly with the climate, and in a Pennsylvania summer, it's more like true-blue combination skin, with a normal-to-oily t-zone and dryness on the cheeks, chin, temples, and jaw. Regardless, I generally treat my skin like dry skin and look for moisturizing products.

2. My legitimate fear of the sun. I mean, c'mon, most companies don't even make a foundation that's a shade darker than me, let alone my actual Casper-white skintone. My MAC Face & Body? It's two parts white to one part color. So it's important to me to find skincare with a high SPF that won't make my face or body break out in teeny tiny reactionary bumps. Which brings me to...

3. Sensitivity. If I find a product that really does the job and doesn't sting my face, cause a rash, or suck any semblance of moisture from my skin, it's a given that I'll keep that product around. If a product DOES cause a problem, I have to sit down and figure out what ingredient might have caused that problem. Some of the ingredients I seem to have trouble with are alcohol, salicylic acid, and tea tree oil, although I can use salicylic acid on my body (below the neck) in small amounts. My face tends to be quite sensitive to physical pressure as well, so I try to use extra-soft brushes and gentle exfoliants.

3. Discoloration, the most obvious being the disconnect between my N5ish body and neck and N15 face. But I also have a lot of redness in my t-zone, the Undereye Circles of Doom, and an odd scar that runs between my nose and lip. If I get a zit, it takes about a month to fade, as the pigmentation tends to linger on my pale skin long after the pustule/cyst is gone.


I'm very stringent about removing my makeup. I've always used something oil-based to completely break down even the longest-wearing products, and the only times I slept in my makeup were the nights I accidentally passed out mid-homework during graduate school. I've been using baby oil as my makeup remover ever since I looked at the label of my Mehron remover and realized the primary ingredient was plain old mineral oil. I soak a Shiseido Facial Cotton in baby oil and sweep it across my face to start breaking down the makeup. Then I hold the cotton over each eye for 30 seconds to remove my waterproof mascara. When my face is good and slick, I massage the oil in to my face for a minute, stimulating the skin and breaking down the makeup even more; this felt super-gross and weird when I first started using oils, but now I love the feeling! Then I wipe a dry Shi cotton all over my face to remove the excess oil (which the makeup is still suspended in) and I hop in to the shower.


That's actually an important part of my every day routine: cleansing with Clean & Clear Daily Pore Cleanser while I'm in the shower at night, and ONLY when I'm in the shower. I find that if I cleanse more than once a day on a very regular basis, I stress out my skin, leading to dryness, flaking, and acne. If my skin is really haggard in the morning, I might splash it with a bit of lukewarm water, but that's it. After my nightly shower, I smooth a thick layer of Avon Nurtura Replenishing Cream over my face and neck. This rich cream is so incredibly moisturizing without being greasy or heavy, but it's also so cheap! I get it for $4 during Avon sales or on Ebay. I've used it for about 4 years now and would absolutely DIE if they discontinued it. I also rub some Elizabeth Arden 8 Hour Cream on my lips to lock in moisture, and sometimes I put it on my eyelashes and cuticles as well. I technically don't wear the Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Liquid SPF60 every day, but I do every day that I'm outside for more than 5 minutes, so I consider it an important part of my daily routine.


Roughly twice a week, I exfoliate and use extra moisturizers. The absolute best facial exfoliant I've ever used is the humble konjac sponge, which I order from Chinese eBay sellers. A konjac sponge is essentially a dry piece of vegetable fiber that softens up in water so you can rub it across your skin in super-gentle, circular motions. Sounds weird and gross, I know, but it really works for me (as long as I apply next to no pressure--no need to be rough with your skin, especially if it's sensitive!)! I also exfoliate my lips, primarily before I put on a bright lipstick. I used to use olive oil and brown sugar, which worked great, but was super-messy, so I switched to the travel-friendly ELF Lip Exfoliator. Immediately after I exfoliate my lips and pat them dry, I apply a thick layer of the C.O Bigelow Rose Salve. This rose salve has a much oilier, more emollient feel than the Smith's version. If my face feels a bit dry and tight or looks dull, I use a pump and a half of Elizabeth Arden Let There Be light Radiant Skin Lotion. It works especially well under sheer foundations to amp up my glow! I just wish they hadn't discontinued this product; luckily, I have a back-up in the downstairs fridge. I use the tiniest bit of the Bobbi Brown Hydrating Eye Cream all around my eyes about once a week for extra smoothness; I don't need it, but it sure feels good. Because it's so damn expensive, though, I tend to stick with sample pots and use them sparingly.


I also have a few choice body products. I just started using the Coppertone Water Babies Pure and Simple SPF 50 sunscreen, but I'm super-impressed with it; it doesn't feel greasy/tacky or break me out the way most high-SPF sunscreens do. After I've applied my Shiseido sunscreen to my face and neck and my Coppertone to the rest of my body, I spritz on a layer of the Banana Boat Quick-Dri Sport Body & Scalp SPF 30 sunscreen, making sure I spray down my hair and scalp as well. It's pretty smelly, but it's one of the few spray-ons that doesn't make my hair crispy and greasy-looking. All of this sunscreen can be a bit heavy on my body, where I'm more prone to acne, so I exfoliate once a week with the St. Ives Apricot Scrub (technically made for the face, but it's far too harsh for anyone's delicate facial skin, IMO) and slather on generous amounts of the Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Intensive Moisturizing Body Treatment.


Finally, there are my emergency problem-solvers. I don't use these too often, but when I've got a major skincare issue, they're always there for me. If my skin is getting dull and tired-looking from travel, stress, or horomones, I liven it up with the GLAMGLOW Tingling & Exfoliating Mud Mask. It's a stupidly expensive product, and it can be quite harsh on the skin if you aren't careful, but once or twice a month? Man, it makes my face as smooth and glowing as a babydoll's! If I have a zit, I zap it with Clean & Clear Persa-Gel 10, which is a 10% benzoyl peroxide cream. It's quite drying, but it helps dry up the zits and calm the redness within a few days, meaning I only have to deal with the pimple's discoloration and not the texture. And while the Haus of Gloi Pumpkin Butter is too heavy and rich for me to rub it on my body every day, it's a life-saver on cracked hands and feet or on winter-time lizard skin, and it was my daily go-to in the colder, dryer North Dakota climate last year.

EDIT: Almost forgot to post a picture of the new skincare goodies that arrived today! :D One of my dear Paula's Choice loving friends sent them to me. Super excited for all of this, especially the mask!


Wednesday, May 8, 2013

FOTD: More New Stuff

The stormy, cloudy week means my lighting is still quite odd, but I'm carrying on with trying out new things! I finally managed to open the sample of the Dolce & Gabanna cream foundation that was very kindly sent to me, and of course, 60 Classic is a lovely match. I'm not 100% sure I LOVE it on my skin, but I DO quite like it. It was a bit of a pain to blend, but I like how it feels on my skin and it provides pretty great coverage.

As for the color cosmetics: clearly I'm wearing MAC Vegas Volt! I keep switching between loving and hating it. The you-can't-even-really-see-it-here eye shimmer comes from a Dior cream shadow that was kindly sent to me as a swap extra. The texture is very similar to a Chanel Illusion d'Ombre, although it's got much more glitter in it.


BASE: Dolce & Gabanna Perfect Finish Creamy Foundation in 60 Classic, MAC Prep + Prime pressed powder

EYES: Too Faced Shadow Insurance, Shu Uemura Hard Formula brow pencil in Seal Brown, Anastasia Clear Brow Gel, CoverGirl Clump Crusher mascara, Dior DiorShow eyeshadow in 622 Undressed Beige

CHEEKS: Ben Nye Creme Colour in Bright Pink, Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector in Pearl

LIPS: MAC Amplified lipstick in Vegas Volt

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

GIVEAWAY! MAC Lady Danger Lipstick

In honor of my new collaboration with Curvysta Haven, I'm giving away a brand new tube of MAC's Lady Danger lipstick! This is a super-bright, super-bold, matte, warm red lipstick made for the truly brave. It's one of my all-time favorite shades, and it definitely makes a statement! Your tube will be brand new and in the box; the open tube you see in this picture is my own.



Entering is super-simple: comment on this blog post and tell me how YOU would wear Lady Danger! Would you wear it with winged liner? Would you try it out on your cheeks? Would you wear it in a box; would you wear it like a fox? (I know, I'm grounded.)

Please be aware that there are some rules for this contest. You must be at least 18 years old and located in the US to enter. You must be prepared to provide me with your full name and address if you win. You may only enter once. Entries will be finalized on June 9, 2013 at 11:59pm EST. I will use Random.com to pick a winner. You do NOT have to be subscribed to this blog to enter, but I will announce the winner in a blog post, so it might help to bookmark BOGL for the next month if you've entered. If you do not respond to that blog post within a week, I will draw a new winner.

Best of luck, and as always, thank you for supporting Bad Outfit, Great Lipstick and Curvysta Haven!

Monday, May 6, 2013

FOTD: Sounds Like Orange

You're all probably going to hate the crap out of this lip, because it's bright, bright orange, but I LOVE MAC Sounds Like Noise! It's just...so ODD. And it's a nice change from the usual reds I pair with my winged liner. I'm going to try a more toned-down application of this soon, ie, blotting it down or applying it over a rich balm.

I tried a few other things in this look, and I'm not so sure I love them. I like the texture of the MAC Prep + Prime pressed powder, but it doesn't seem to do much. And the Illamasqua Skin Base foundation is just...awful in pictures. It's kinda nice in person (at least so far), but it makes me look dull and not-at-all covered on camera. I'll play with it a bit more, though.

Also, two items in this look are getting purged. The first is Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight, which is GORGEOUS, but just isn't as nice on my super-dry cheeks as a cream or liquid highlighter. I want it to go to a better home. :) And the L'oreal Lineur Intense is officially getting tossed. Tried to use a pencil and a pressed shadow on top, and applying barely any pressure PULLED THE LIQUID LINER RIGHT OFF. Not okay with it.



BASE: Illamasqua Skin Base in 02, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx01


EYES: Too Faced Shadow Insurance, Shu Uemura Hard Formula brow pencil in Seal Brown, Anastasia Clear Brow Gel, CoverGirl Clump Crusher mascara, Elizabeth Arden Smoky Eyes pencil in Smoky Black, L'oreal Lineur Intense in Carbon Black, Wet n' Wild eyeshadow in Brulee, MAC Chromagraphic Pencil in NC15/NW20

CHEEKS: Lancome Blush Subtil in Tangerine Tint (used super-lightly, so not visible in pictures), Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight powder

LIPS: MAC Chromagraphic Pencil in Basic Orange, MAC Matte lipstick in Sounds Like Noise [LE]

Saturday, May 4, 2013

Review: Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Tinted Balm


Does this really need an introduction? We all know I'm willing to try just about anything from the Kevyn Aucoin brand, partly because Kevyn was my all-time favorite makeup artist (RIP), but also because it's one of the few brands that seems to create super-light foundations in formulations I can work with. So when I saw that they were re-promoting this tinted moisturizer-type product, and when I heard from the...oh, two existing blog reviews that it ran quite light, I was sold.

I technically swapped for this product: the other gal bought it from a website during a big sale and sent it to me in exchange for a few of my purged items. But if you should buy it full price, the Sensual Skin Tinted Balm will cost you $48 for 1 oz. I got Sb01, the lightest shade. The listing on Nordstrom says that this product will "treat" the skin and improve all sorts of cell functions with a variety of random buzzwordy stuff, blah blah blah, I don't believe any of that. I was more interested in the idea that it "conceals imperfections with lightweight pigments versus dense compounds," "protects against UVA and UVB rays with a theoretic SPF20" (note that it's theoretic, and that you won't see "SPF20" anywhere on the box or tube), and is oil and paraben free.

Straight off the bat: LOVE the packaging for this product. It has a pull-off cap that doesn't yoink off easily, so it's purse-safe, and the top of the bottle is clear and kind of...squishy. You squeeze that part to dispense the foundation from a very tiny, thin nozzle. You'll see just how much product you have left and you'll never dispense too much, which is a vast improvement over other Kevyn Aucoin foundation packaging.


For a foundation that's supposed to be lightweight, this product is surprisingly thick and creamy, almost like a concealer. When I blended it in to my face, I got the impression that I was rubbing on a rich sunscreen or moisturizer. I was expecting something much more silicone-y feeling, given the high amount of dimethicone in the formulation (scroll down for the ingredients list). There wasn't any moisturization (or if there should be, my skin is too dry for it to really make a difference), but it definitely felt like the product had some density and weight to it. It blended out easily, though, and was weightless after it had been applied.

Now, I figured that this product would be too dark for me when I tested it out the back of my hand and it turned dark orange. Once applied to my face, it's definitely too dark, but it's not as shockingly orange as it was on my hand. I'd guesstimate that Sb01 is about NW15 in MAC terms, since my neck and chest (which I match to) are about N5 and this was two shades too dark.


Although this is supposedly a "tinted balm," it doesn't moisturize much and it provides a decent bit of coverage, so I'm more apt to call it a "sheer foundation." As you can see in these pictures, it evened out my discoloration and lightened up (but did not completely conceal) my taking-forever-to-fade chin blemish. It didn't make much of a dent on my undereye circles, but few products do, so that's no big deal to me. The finish is a very natural matte/satin finish; it makes my skin look polished, but not made-up.


The Sensual Skin Tinted Balm applied beautifully to my oily nose, normal forehead, and somewhat dry cheeks, but in the mouth/chin area--where I tend to get super-dry--it was a bit of a struggle. I was stunned to see that my mouth and chin were covered in teeny tiny flakes that I hadn't noticed or felt prior to applying the foundation. I don't know WHY this foundation brought those flakes to the surface, because it didn't feel particularly drying and it sat comfortably on my skin otherwise, but I was very disappointed to see that yet another Kevyn Aucoin foundation wouldn't work wonders on my combination-dry face. I would point fingers at the alcohol listed in the ingredients if the flakes didn't pop up so immediately and if the product was harsher on my face after hours of wear, but for now, it's a mystery.


In all fairness, the product softened up on my skin after about 15 minutes, which is what most foundations do. I sort of...um...brushed the flakes away (I know, I know, it's gross), and then it looked just fine all over my face. But again, it's a bit frustrating that it made my skin look even dryer than it was, and I know that it wouldn't work on me in the winter when my face turns to the Sahara.

On my normal, oily, and slightly dry areas, though, this foundation was a thing of pure beauty. I know for a fact that if it wasn't so hilariously dark on my uber-pale skin, I'd make it my go-to spring/summer foundation because of how weightless and natural it looks.


Here's how my face looked after 2 hours of walking, swinging, and running around on a warm day. I was absolutely stunned to see that such a creamy-textured product had not only stayed put on my dry and normal areas, but had only gotten a smidge shiny on my mega-oily nose. It looked beautiful even in bright, bright daylight, and again, if it hadn't been too dark for me, it would've looked like my own skin, only better. (Bear in mind that the extra coverage on my chin, undereyes, and around my nose is from my concealer--the Tinted Balm didn't magically become higher coverage!)

So would I recommend this product? If you have normal to slightly oily/dry skin and you're looking for something lightweight and natural, then yes, definitely. It gave me beautiful, sheer coverage and played well with a variety of brushes, powders, and cream products, and it lasted through extreme temperatures better than I ever would have expected. The shade range is incredibly limited, though, and the texture is a tad wonky, especially on dryer skin, but if can find a color that'll work for you, I say give it a go! I'm going to cling to my tube for a bit longer in the hopes that I'll "tan" up a bit and be able to rock it throughout the summer.

Rating: 4 out of 5


From left to right: Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Tinted Balm in Sb01, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx02, Burberry Sheer Luminous foundation in Trench 01, Tarte Tinted BB Treatment in Fair, Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx01


Friday, May 3, 2013

No, I'm not dead...but my wallet is.

My apologies for the extended absence-o-content. I've had a crazy-weird work schedule and a nasty bout of the flu that's still lingering a smidge, so I've been spending most of my spare time sleeping and filling out job applications. But! I did manage to buy some brand new cheap goodies, finish a swap, and close my MAC Pro card with a bang.


The Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Tinted Balm has been a long-time lust of mine, and I'll do a full review of it when I get the chance. I can tell you right now, however, that I'm pretty sure it's going to be too dark for me. :( I got the NYX Black eyeshadow at the grocery store when I realized I'm lacking a matte black; I've been using it to do my winged liner from time to time, and I'm quite impressed with it! The Ben Nye Creme Color was a total impulse purchase, and now that I have it home, I think it looks very similar to the Kevyn Aucoin Creamy Moist Glow in Isadore...I'll keep you posted.


I didn't plan on buying any of the limited Edition Maybelline Color Tattoo cream shadows, but these were SO hyped, and they looked super-pretty when I held them up to the light. Seashore Frosts is, of course, the one everybody's talking about, and it's pretty unique from what I can tell. I also bought Lavish Lavender because it's my sort of color, and I think it might look neat with the Laura Mercier Metallic Creme eyeshadow in Alloy (which, unfortunately, I haven't been able to figure out yet; I'm pretty sure it's just not working on me).


Then I bought some pressed powders and a 209 brush from MAC, blah blah blah, nobody cares. LIPSTICKS! Obviously, I got a few brights. I Back 2 MACed for Vegas Volt about 2 years ago, then decided it wouldn't look right on me and immediately put it up as a contest prize. Now that I've relaxed a little more with regards to my bright lip colors (not everything has to be a blue-based red or hot pink, etc), I've decided to give it another shot. I also bought the limited edition Paramore lipstick, Sounds Like Noise, which I didn't get a discount on, but it's just...so WEIRD. I had to have it! And of course, the much-loved Girl About Town. I tested it out immediately and already adore it.


I also got a nude-ish color (shock!), Please Me. I'm not 100% sure how I feel about this shade. I think I'll only be able to wear it on itself with very specific looks and outfits, but if I want to wear it regularly, it'll probably  need a little gloss to not look so...eh? I'll play around with it a bit.

And keep your eyes out for my other purchase--it's a contest prize. ;)


From left to right: Makeup Forever Rouge Artist Intense #37, MAC Vegas Volt, MAC Sounds Like Noise, MAC Girl About Town, MAC Petals and Peacocks, MAC Please Me, Lipstick Queen Pink Sinner.